
v»';;>'Vi/ ' I ■ ■,-'l'-"';'^i ■■■'--•I ' »l i - 'i' ,, •',' n ■:■ ,, 

i ":l4fc^:.!:*;iiiS:'i^.^^;P;''^'»■■;'■■•»^-::-^-^lK 




vTumi 






Sl^KrWilffilll In^'li'lll' ill'fW^'' *H|;lii,v^':' '•'(, r'. -'•../' r;, ,>,„„,; i/ k ^ 



.itiitiiMWi'mmii^i 






















o 

o 



AT V 




*• " ° -» o ^'^ 









The Book 
For A II Households 

OR 

THE ART OF PRESERVING 

ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE 

SUBSTANCES FOR MANY 

YEARS 



By 
APPERT 



Translated by 

K. G. BITTING, M.S., 

Bacteriologist, Glass Container Association 

of America. 



Chicago, 111. 
August, 1920 



''... / 



> 



aJU 



^L^cn-Cu 



ffr 



,i> 



(8) 



The art of Appertizing, or preserv- 
ing food sterilized by heat in a hermet- 
ically sealed container, was conceived a 
little more than a hnndred years ago as 
a war measure to provision the French 
forces upon the sea. It played a most 
important part in provisioning the 
armies in the recent war and in pro- 
viding succor for the millions of starv- 
ing civilians. But this role is far less 
beneficent than is the furnishing of 
good, wholesome, palatable, nutritious 
food at all times and at any place under 
peace conditions. 

The food preserving industry has 
grown with remarkable rapidity in this 
country during the past two decades, 
and this applies to the household as well 
as to the factory or commercial product. 
As a result, many persons are taking 



(f) 

more than a cursory interest in the prep- 
aration of their foods, and to some of 
these a translation of the original work 
by M. Appert may prove of interest. 

The translation has been made to fol- 
low the original very closely in order to 
preserve the exact meaning intended and 
not to modernize it according to present 
usage. 



(6) 



NICOLAS APPERT. 

Like many inventors and scientists, 
Nicolas Appert did not reap the benefits 
from the discoveries which he made on 
methods of preserving foods, nor did he 
receive adequate honors, though it was 
reahzed by the government even during 
his hfetime how far-reaching were his 
discoveries. 

M. Appert was born at Chalons-sur- 
JNIarne in 1750, and experimented with 
foods all the working years of his life, 
as he conducted and superintended the 
work in confectionaries, kitchens, distil- 
leries, breweries, and store-houses for 
food, besides being the provisioner to 
the ducal house of Christian IV., a posi- 
tion which carried assurance that its 
possessor was of large experience, of 
executive ability, and of wide knowl- 
edge. His experience gave him a thor- 
ough and varied knowledge of the 
preparation of foods, evidenced in his 
methods for their preservation wliich 



(7) 
show an insight into their structure 
which is rarely held even by the food 
manufacturer of today. 

Xot only does he rank as the origi- 
nator of the preservation of foods 
through sterilization by heat in closed 
vessels, but as a man of generous char- 
acter, sharing his discoveries with all 
who wished to use them. He was a 
man of wide vision, knowing full well 
the importance to the whole world of 
the success of his experiments. On the 
other hand he was very particular to the 
minutest detail, so that as a result, a 
tyro, by following his directions, could 
use his methods successfully. When it 
is realized that he was obliged to make 
all the apparatus and appliances which 
he used, even to designing special bot- 
tles, to the making of the corks, cutting 
and gluing them by hand, the difficulties 
which he had to meet and overcome seem 
insurmountable. 

The Societ}^ for the Encouragement 
of National Industry drew attention 
through their official bulletin to the im- 



(8) 
portance of his work, according him 
much honor. This organization had his 
work verified under severe conditions by 
the Bureau of Arts and Manufactures. 
The foods were carried on voyages, 
some of these being beyond the equator, 
and on the boats they were stored under 
unfavorable conditions. Their import- 
ance in ehminating scurvy from sea- 
faring men and in furnishing provisions 
for the soldiers was realized by the 
French government, and, upon the re- 
quest of the Minister of the Interior, 
the detailed description of his work was 
published, for which he was awarded 
12,000 francs as a "testimonial of the 
good will of the government." His work 
was published in 1810, though he had a 
testimonial from the society in April, 
1809. and he had been studying and ex- 
perimenting for ten years previously 
along these same lines. 

Napoleon and his ministers were 
greatly interested in the development of 
the sugar beet industry at that time and 
extended to it unlimited government 



(9) 
aid, but evidently through preoccupa- 
tion with that interest failed to fully 
recognize the great service which Ap- 
pert had rendered or to give the full 
measure of encouragement to him which 
was his due. 

The award furnished him with funds 
with which to establish his work on a 
commercial basis, and in 1812 he found- 
ed the House of Appert, and remained 
at the head nearly to the time of his 
death in 1841. He died a poor man, 
having exhausted his means in continu- 
ing his experiments and in trying to 
bring them to a higher state of perfec- 
tion. 

He has had w^orthy successors in 
members of his family; his immediate 
successor, M. Raymond Chevallier- Ap- 
pert, w^as knighted for the services w^hich 
he and his family rendered to humanity. 
He it was w^ho adapted the autoclave to 
the use of processing foods at tempera- 
tures above the boiling point and who 
also devised a manometer for it so as 
to regulate the pressure more closely, 



(10) 
and was thus enabled to obtain tempera- 
tures varying not more than a half of a 
degree. Previously, temperatures 
might vary twenty degrees. It was dur- 
ing his ownership that the factory was 
moved to the site that it now occupies, 
and the name of the manufactory 
changed to that of "House of Cheval- 
lier-Appert." He was succeeded by 
M. Alfred Chevallier-Appert, another 
notable member of the family, who in- 
stalled additional works, storehouses, 
and offices for the various needs of the 
work. He received the Cross of Chev- 
alier of the Legion of Honor in 1896 for 
services rendered the industry. He died 
in 1909, after forty years' service, and 
was succeeded by his son, Raymond 
Chev/illier-A])])ert, second, who did not- 
able work during the war in carrying on 
the family tradition for providing whole- 
some, appetizing food for the soldiers. 
He also received the Cross of the Legion 
of Honor for his initiative and services. 
Associated with Raymond Chevallier- 
Appert are many devoted fellow-work- 



(11) 

ers, many of whom have been decorated 
with the medal of Honor, a recognition 
made by the government for thirty 
years' service with the same house. 

In the preservation of food Xicolas 
Appert, not only used a varied assort- 
ment, as can be seen from the table of 
contents, but also prepared them in an 
appetizing way, not being satisfied to 
merely preserve the basic material. He 
also preserved them in forms that are 
considered achievements in the art of 
preserving today. In 1814, he requested 
tests be made of his bouillon cubes. This 
originality and initiative have been char- 
acteristic of the Appert manufactory 
from the start, and has been carried on 
through more than the hundred years 
of its existence. Among its products to- 
day are found hors-d'oeuvres, soups, 
meats au 7iaturel and with various 
dressings, pates, game and domestic 
fow4, vegetables also prepared in the 
form of various dishes or au natiirel, 
termed a Vanglaise, sauces, fish, eggs, 
cheese, entremets, desserts, fruits, and 



(12) 
beverages, so that a catalogue of the 
products looks like an extensive high 
class menu, the preparation of which 
requires not only great skill, but also 
scientific knowledge of a high order. 

While Appert's training was in the 
school of experience, he was a true scien- 
tist. He had the ability to develop facts 
through carefully planned experiments 
and to interpret the results in the rela- 
tion of cause to effect. He set about 
the task of studying food preservation 
systematically. No "fortunate accident" 
served to give him a starting point from 
w^iich he could proceed with ease. His 
was the task of blazing a new path 
through the unknown and this he accom- 
plished by short steps, always going for- 
ward and with confidence because that 
which he had covered was well done. 
His achievement of success was the re- 
sult of clear thinking and almost limit- 
less patience in attacking a difficult 
problem, but which, due to his establish- 
ing the correct fundamental principles, 
seems so simple to us. He is deserving 



(18) 

of special honor, for science at that 
period offered him httle or no aid. Bac- 
teriology, the special branch of science 
upon which his work depends, was then 
unknown, and chemistry afforded him 
little assistance. In fact he had a far 
better understanding of what he was 
doing than did Gay-Lussac, then the 
foremost chemist of the ^vorld, or Liebig 
who followed later, both of whom un- 
dertook to explain why his products 
kept. 

In many ways Appert deserves to 
stand in the same relation to the food 
preserving industry as does Pasteur to 
the sciences of bacteriology and of medi- 
cine. Through his efforts mankind has 
been benefited by better foods, the sur- 
plus product of one season may be safe- 
ly carried over to the time of non-pro- 
duction and the staples and delicacies of 
any country may be exchanged for 
those of any other. Xo single discovery 
has contributed more to modern food 
manufacture nor to the general welfare 
of mankind. 



(14) 



Fin I 




Fiq.^. 




F".q, 3. 



c=^ 




J 



I z 



'• ^ 4- 

' ) ( 1 ^_ 



S D 



(15) 





Fig'. 4 



(16 



Rq 6 




I 1 1 [ 1 1 1 1 1 1 (- 



O rr 

-4 




Rg 5. 




07) 

EXPLAXATIOX OF THE 
PLATES 

Perfect closing being of the greatest 
importance to obtain preservation of all 
alimentary substances, in order to attain 
it, I make use of the apparatus figured 
on the following plate, which, though 
susceptible of improvement, has an- 
swered my purpose perfectly. Conse- 
quently, I believe an explanation of it 
should be given. 

First Figure. Reel with two iron 
wings used to double the wire which is 
afterwards cut in the middle by the reel, 
so as to have two lengths sufficient to 
fasten the corks in the bottles. 

Second. Small machine to twist to- 
gether for a third of their length the 
pieces of wire cut in two by the pre- 
ceding machine. 

Third. Iron A^ise used to compress 
and to reduce the corks for three-quar- 
ters of their length, starting at the 
smaller end. 



(18) 

Fourth. Straw-padded stool pro- 
vided with a small wooden shelf upon 
which the bottles are placed so as to 
wire and to tie the corks more easily. 
The same stool may serve to set near the 
bottle-holder, when the closing is done. 

Fifth. Block of wood, called bottle- 
holder, hollowed on its upper surface to 
form a shallow basin, in which the bot- 
toms of the bottles are placed when they 
are to be corked. This block is provided 
with a strong wooden pallet, which is 
used to force the entrance of the stop- 
pers. 

Sixth. View of tlie front and side of 
a pliers, with a hinge-pin, w^hich is used 
to twist the wire that holds the cork in 
and at the same time to cut the excess 
ends of wire. 

As I shall indicate, I use the flat 
pliers and the shears for this operation. 



The 

Art of Preserving 

ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE 

SUBSTANCES FOR MANY 

YEARS 

Work submitted to the Consulting Bureau of Arts 
Eind Manufactures, invested witli its approval, and 
published upon the invitation of His Excellency, the 
Minister of the Interior. 

By APPERT, 

Proprietor at Massy, Department of the Seine and Oise, 
former confectioner and distiller, elevated to be provisioner 
to tbe ducal house of Christian IV. 



"I have thought that your discovery 
merited a particular testimonial of the 
good will of the Government." 

Letter from His Excellency, the 
Minister of the Interior. 



At the house of Patris & Co., Printers-Booksellers. 
5uay Napoleon, at the corner of the Street of the 
Dove, No. 4. 



1810 



The author has complied with all that 
the law requires in order to guarantee 
his ownership ; in consequence he serves 
notice that he will prosecute counter- 
feiters and dealers in counterfeit copies ; 
and that any copy that does not bear 
his signature will be considered coun- 
terfeit. 

Appert. (Signed). 



CAUTION 

By the Publisher 



In order to avoid the imitations which 
might occur in the manufacture of pre- 
served substances, advertised as from 
the manufactory at Massy, we have just 
made arrangements with M. Appert 
which we take the Uberty of announc- 
ing to thq pubhc, that there will be 
found in our stores, Napoleon Quay, at 
the corner of the Street of the Dove, 
number 4, in the city, Paris, an assort- 
ment of preserved foods from the manu- 
factory at Massy, at moderate prices 
and which may be determined from a 
list that we shall publish from time to 
time in the newspapers. 

N. B. As these articles cannot be pre- 
pared in quantity, Messrs., the chefs for 



(vi) 

the admirals of the fleet and the staff, 
who desire to provision for long voy- 
ages are requested to make their orders 
in advance. 



PREFACE 

The art of preserving for many years 
animal and vegetable substances in all 
their freshness and with all their natural 
properties is not one of the doubtful dis- 
coveries set forth merely for interest and 
covetousness. 

My method, exempt from all the ob- 
jections with which all those used until 
now might justly be reproached, has 
received the sanction of a long experi- 
ence ; it is strengthened by the testimony 
of men skilled in the art and by the 
approbation of numerous consumers. 

The principle of which I make use 
is unique; it operates in the same way 
and produces the same effects upon all 
foods without exception. 

An illustrious minister, an ardent 
friend of the arts and of humanity, after 
having had my process verified by a spe- 
cial commission, has been pleased to 
accord encouragement to it which re- 



(viii) 
doubled my zeal; but the most flattering 
reward that could be accorded to me 
is the invitation to render public, by way 
of print, the knowledge of my process, 
my discovery which may be of great use- 
fulness in sea voyages, in hospitals, and 
in domestic economy. 

N. B. I shall receive with gratitude the ob- 
servations that may be made upon my proc- 
esseSj and I shall hasten to give all the informa- 
tion that might be further desired after the 
reading of this work; I only request perfect 
frankness from those who address letters to me. 



THE MINISTER OF THE 
INTERIOR 

Court of the Empire, 

to 

M. Appert, 

Proprietor at Massy, near Paris. 



Paeis, January 30, 1810. 

Second Division 

Bureau of Arts and Manufactures. 

The Consulting Bureau of Arts and 
Manufactures, has rendered an account 
to me. Sir, of the examination that it 
has made of your processes for the 
preservation of fruits, vegetables, meats, 
broths, milk, etc.; after this report one 
cannot doubt the reality of these pro- 
cesses. As the preservation of animal 
and vegetable substances can be of the 
greatest usefulness in sea voyages, in 



(x) 
hospitals, and in domestic economy, I 
have felt that your discovery merited a 
special testimonial of the good-will of 
the Government. I have, in consequence, 
welcomed the proposition that has been 
made to me by the consulting bureau 
of according to you a reward of twelve 
thousand francs. In making this deci- 
sion, I have had in view, at first, of 
awarding to you the recompense due to 
those who are originators of useful proc- 
esses; afterguards to indemnify you for 
the expenses that you have been obliged 
to make to establish your workrooms, to 
devote yourself to the necessary experi- 
ments to verify the results of your 
methods. You shall immediately in- 
form the chief of the division of ac- 
counts of my department the day when 
you desire to present yourself at the 
public treasury to receive the 'twelve 
thousand francs that I have accorded 
to you. 



(xi) 

It has appeared to me, Sir, that it is 
important to spread the knowledge of 
your processes for the preservation of 
animal and vegetable substances. I de- 
sire, therefore, conformably to the pro- 
posal that you have made, that you 
write an exact and detailed description 
of these processes, that you deliver this 
description to the Consulting Bureau of 
Arts and Manufactures to be printed at 
your expense. After that it will be ex- 
amined and reviewed. You are then to 
send two hundred copies to me. The 
delivery of these copies being the only 
condition that I place on the payment 
of the twelve thousand francs that you 
have been granted. I doubt not but 
that you will comply with this readily, 
I desire. Sir, that you acknowledge the 
receipt of my letter. 

Accept the assurance of my distin- 
guished sentiments. 

(Signed) Montalivet. 



(xii) 
Consulting Bureau of Arts and 

Manufactures. 

"The undersigned, members' of the 
Consulting Bureau of Arts and Manu- 
factures, next to the minister of the in- 
terior, charged by His Excellency to 
examine the description of the processes 
which are employed by M. Appert, for 
the preservation of foods, have recog- 
nized that the details which it includes 
on the manner of working and upon the 
results that are obtained, are accurate 
and conform to the various experiments 
that have been made on them before by 
M. Appert, by the order of His Excel- 
lency." 

Paris, this 19th day of April, 1810. 
Bardel, Gay-Lussac, Scipion- 
Perier, Molar d. 



Copy of a letter to General Caffar- 
elli, Naval Prefect at Brest, by the Bu- 



(xiii) 

reau of Health, under the date of the 
month of Brumaire, year 12. 

"The foods prepared according to the 
process of Citizen Appert and sent to 
this port by the Minister of Marine, 
after a sojourn of three months upon 
the roadstead, presented the following 
condition : 

The broth in bottles was good, the 
broth with boiled beef in a special ves- 
sel, good also, but weak ; the boiled beef 
itself very edible. 

The beans and small peas, prepared 
both with and without meat, have all 
the freshness and the agreeable flavor of 
freshly picked vegetables." 

Signed Dubreuil, Billard, Duret, 
Pichon, and Thaumer. 

A true copy. 

The Secretary of the Council, 

J. Miriel. 



SOCIETY 
FOR ENCOURAGEMENT 

of National Industry 



Paris, April 7, 1809. 

The Secretary of the Society for En- 
couragement of National Industry^ 

To M. A p pert J Proprietor at Massy. 

Sir: i 

/ have the pleasure of transmitting to 
you a copy of the report made to the 
Society for Encouragement by Messrs. 
Guyton - Morveau, Parmentier, and 
Bouriat, upon your preserves of animal 
and vegetable substances. Nothing can 
be added to the judgment that the com- 
mission has made iipon your discovery; 



(XV) 

it announces^ however^ that it has not 
made experiments sufficiently rigorous 
nor continued for a sufficiently long 
time, to establish undeniably just at 
what point the substances that you pre- 
pare are susceptible of being preserved; 
but that which has been observed, has 
sufficed for it to form a conclusion 
already favorably disposed through the 
numerous and decisive testimonials 
which attest your success. 

The Society for Encouragement be- 
lieves it is of service to the country and 
to humanity in publishing, with the 
commendations which it merits, a dis- 
covery so generally useful. Its desires 
are accomplished, if its approbation, in 
leading the consumers to make use of 
your products, shall contribute to your 
obtaining just recompense for your 
work. 

Accept, Sir, the assurance of the per- 
fect consideration with which I have the 
honor to salute you. 

Math. Montmorency, Sec. Adj. 



i 



1 



THE ART OF 

PRESERVING ANIMAL AND 

VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES 

All the imaginable means heretofore 
used for preserving foods or medicines 
are reduced to two principal methods; 
one in which desiccation is employed, 
the other in which more or less of a 
characteristic foreign substance is added 
to prevent fermentation and putrefac- 
tion. It is in following the first of these 
methods that dried fruits and vege- 
tables, smoked meats, and salted fish are 
obtained. By the second are obtained 
fruits and different parts of vegetables 
preserved in sugar; juices and decoc- 
tions of plants reduced to syrups or in 
extracts; vegetables, fruits, and buds 
preserved in vinegar; meats, herbs, and 
vegetables salted; but all those means 

(1) 



(2) 
cany more or less objection. Drying 
destroys the aroma, changes the flavor 
of the juices, shrivels the fibrous tissue 
or parenchyma. Whatever may be the 
savor, even in those which are very sapid, 
the sugar masks and destroys in part 
other savors, the presence of which it is 
desired to preserve, such as the agreeable 
acidity of many fruits. A second ob- 
jection is that a great deal of sugar is 
required in order to preserve a small 
quantity of any other vegetable matter, 
and upon this account it is not only very 
costly but also detrimental in some 
cases. It is in the same manner that 
juices of plants cannot be reduced to 
the form of syrups or extracts without 
at least nearly double the quantity of 
sugar; this results in the syrups or ex- 
tracts containing much more of the 
sugar than of the medicament, and 
oftimes the sugar darkens to the detri- 
ment and the action of the medicine. 

The salt carries into the substance 
a disagreeable harshness, hardens the 
animal fibre there, and renders it in- 



(8) 
digestible (1) ; it contracts vegetable 
parenchyma. On the other hand, as 
it is necessary to remove the major 
part of the salt used by means of 
water, nearly all the soluble principles 
in the cold water are lost when soaking 
is done; there remains only the fibrous 
or parenchymatous matter, which, as has 
been said, is also altered. 



(1) "The salted meats, upon which the ships' 
crews are fed, appear to be the principal 
cause of scurvy; it seems that the same reasons 
which cause salts to prevent the fermentation 
of meats, render them difficult of digestion. 
Though a small quantity of salt may be able to 
check putrefaction, the too abundant and too 
continued use made of it, may produce de- 
rangement in the fine ducts, and these derange- 
ments cannot fail to over-work the stomach 
of persons who have to digest dried vegetables 
and the biscuits which aged sailors cannot 
masticate thoroughly. Poor digestion and ob- 
struction of the small vessels may occasion 
ulcers of the mouth, and the spots which denote 
scurvy, etc." 

(Sante des Marins, par Duhamel, page 64.) 



(4) 

The vinegar can only serve as seas- 
oning for many substances. 

I shall not enter into detail upon all 
that has been said and published on 
the art of preserving foods; these 
works are known. I shall only observe 
that not to my knowledge, has any 
author, ancient or modern, indicated, 
nor even surmised, the principle that 
forms the basis of the method which I 
offer. 

II is well known that for some time 
at Paris and in the provinces, public at- 
tention was directed towards means of 
diminishing the consumption of sugar 
and in making up the deficiency by va- 
rious extracts of native substances. The 
Government whose philanthropic over- 
sight is extended to all useful subjects, 
is unremitting in inviting those who are 
concerned in the arts and sciences to 
determine means of most advantageous- 
ly turning to account the productions 
from our soil, and giving the greatest 



(5) 

development to agriculture and to our 
manufactures so as to lessen the con- 
sumption of foreign merchandise. In 
order to contribute to the same end the 
Society for Encouragement of National 
Industry inspired by flattering rewards 
those whose talents and efforts were di- 
rected toward discoveries, from which 
the nation and humanity might draw 
real advantages. Animated by as laud- 
able a zeal, the Society of Agricultui'e 
through its resolution of the 21st of 
June, 1809, and its circular of the fol- 
lowing 15th of July, made a general 
appeal so as to obtain directions and 
information that might serve in the 
composition of a work upon the art of 
preserving all alimentary substances by 
the best possible means. 

It is following these invitations so de- 
serving of respect, that I decided to 
publish a method, easy to put in prac- 
tise, and particularly at little cost in its 
execution, a method, which by the ex- 
tension to which it is susceptible, may 



(6) 
present numerous advantages to the 
society. 

This method is not an empty theory ; 
it is the fruit of my vigils, of my medi- 
tation, of research, and of numerous ex- 
periments, the results of which after 
more than ten years, have produced 
such wonder that, notwithstanding the 
evidence acquired from the repeated use 
of preserved edibles, for two, three, and 
six years, many persons still do not be- 
lieve in it. 

Reared in the art of preparing and 
preserving by these processes, I knew 
alimentary products ; having lived, as it 
were, in pantries, in breweries, in store- 
rooms, and in the cellars of Champagne, 
as well as in the factories of the confec- 
tioners and distillers, and in the store- 
houses of the grocers ; accustomed to su- 
perintend and to conduct establishments 
of this kind during forty-five years, I 
have been able to give a faithful account 
of my work, aided by numerous advan- 
tages which could not be procured by the 



(7) 
majority of those who are occupied with 
the art of preserving foods. 

I owe to my experiments and above 
all to Sk great perseverance, to being 
convinced, 1st, that the subject of heat 
has the essential quality in itself not 
only of changing the combination of the 
constituent parts of animal and vege- 
table products, but also that, if not de- 
stroying, at least of arresting for many 
years the natural tendency of these 
same products to decomposition; 2nd, 
that its application in a proper manner 
to all these products, after having de- 
prived them in the most rigorous man- 
ner possible of contact with the air, ef- 
fects perfect preservation of these same 
products with all their natural qualities. 

Before entering into the details of the 
execution of my process, I ought to say 
that it consists principally: 

1st. To enclose in the bottle or jar 
the substances that one wishes to pre- 
serve ; 



,(8) 
2d. To cork these different vessels 
with the greatest care because success 
depends chiefly on the closing; 

3d. To submit these substances thus 
enclosed to the action of boiling water 
in a water-bath for more or less time ac- 
cording to their nature and in the man- 
ner that I shall indicate for each kind 
of food; 

4th. To remove the bottles from the 
water-bath at the time prescribed. 



(9) 



Description of the manufactories that I 
have established for the execution of 
my process on a large scale ( 1 ) 

My laboratory consists of four com- 
partments or workshops. The first fur- 
nished with a battery of kitchen utensils, 
of stoves, and of the necessary apparatus 
for preparing all the animal substances 
intended to be preserved, such as a mar- 
mite for consommes, of thirty weltes ( * ) 
capacity, mounted in masonry. This 
marmite is furnished with a double 
boiler pierced with small openings like 
a colander, having compartments in- 
tended to admit meats and fowl, which 

(1) One understands that for special use 
in the home and for small operations, it is 
unnecessary to establish workrooms; the ves- 
sels and other utensils which are found wher- 
ever economical housekeepers occupy them- 
selves with their winter provisions, suffice for 
working according to my method. 

(*) Welte — velt? Mauritian liquid measure, 
2 gallons or 7.57 liters. 



(10) 

are introduced in the first, and this with- 
drawn at will with all the meats. 

The first is equipped with a strong 
valve to which is applied in the interior 
of the marmite a small ball, like that of 
a watering pot, covered with a piece of 
bolting cloth. By this means the bouil- 
lon or consomme is obtained clear and 
all ready to put in bottles. 

The second piece is intended for pre- 
paring milk, cream, and whey. 

The third for corking, wiring, and 
placing in sacking the bottles and other 
vessels. 

The fourth is furnished with three 
large copper kettles moimted in ma- 
sonry on the furnaces. Each of these 
kettles is furnished with a strong cover 
just large enough to enter the inside 
and rest upon the vessels. Each boiler 
is equipped with a strong valve at the 
bottom to let out the water at proper 
times ; these vessels generally receive all 
the objects that are intended to be pre- 



(11) 

served, so as to apply to them in a suit- 
able manner the action of the heat of 
the water-bath. ( 1 . ) 



(1) However in extensive operations, it is 
necessary to have the large boilers equipped 
with strong valves as otherwise they would be 
too long in cooling with such a volume of water, 
and resting during the time on a hot furnace; 
on the other hand the heat applied for too long 
a time might greatly injure the substances. In 
small operations and in homes the first kettle 
or earthenware vessel would serve, therefore, 
without inconvenience, provided that the bot- 
tles be immersed just to the cord line or ring; 
one could even in default of so tall a vessel, lay 
them in the water-bath taking the precaution to 
pack them well there so as to avoid breaking. 
Many operations handled in this way have suc- 
ceeded very well with me. The corks work out 
a little farther, but if the bottles be well 
corked, there is nothing to fear. For example, 
it is not advisable to use vessels closed 
with corks made of several pieces, because 
these corks are strained more by the action of 
the heat, and however well closed the vessel 
may be, it would be imprudent to use them. 



(12) 

The utensils which furnish the thu'd 
piece for the preparatory processes con- 
sist : 

1. Of pieces of boards to set between 
the bottles. 

2. Of a reel for the wire intended to 
bind the bottles and other vessels. (Fig. 

3. Of shears and pliers for wiring. 
(Fig. 6.) 

4. Of a small lathe for twisting the 
wire when it is cut into lengths. (Fig. 2) . 

5. Of a vise for squeezing the corks. 
{Fig. 3.) 

6. Of a bottle - holder or block 
mounted on three legs, furnished with a 
strong pallet for corking. (Fig. 5.) 



The small water-baths are so much more con- 
venient since they can be placed anywhere, and 
charged at will; they cool promptly and when 
one can hold his hand within, the bottles are 
withdrawn, and the operation is therefore ter- 
minated. 



(13) 

7. Of a stool mounted on five legs 
for wiring, (Fig, 4.) 

8. Of a sufficient quantity of sack- 
ing to envelop the bottles and other ves- 
sels, 

9. Of two leather-covered stools, 
stuffed with hay, upon which to rest the 
bottles when it is necessary to press down 
the contents, 

10. Of a press for the juices of 
plants, fruits, herbs, and the must of 
grapes, with the earthenware, vessels, 
sieve, and all the other necessary things. 

In addition to this laboratory, 
equipped in this manner, I have estab- 
lished three workshops; the first, for 
preparing the vegetables, which is fur- 
nished with tables round the outer walls. 

The second for receiving and prepar- 
ing the fruit, received from the green- 
grocer. 

The third is a cellar furnished with 
board staging, used for rinsing and 
compactly arranging the bottles and 
other vessels in storage. 



(U) 

I take the precaution to rinse in ad- 
vance the bottles and vessels which I ex- 
pect to need. I procure an assortment 
of corks, which I squeeze, also wire 
which I lay out; when all are thus pre- 
pared, the operations are half done. 

The principle of preservation of all 
foods is invariable in its effect; the re- 
sults depend entu'ely on its application 
in a suitable measure to each of them 
according to their nature, and with the 
exclusion of air. This last precaution is 
of the greatest importance in order to 
attain perfect preservation. A sure 
means of depriving the foods from con- 
tact with air, is to have a perfect under- 
standing of the bottles and vessels which 
are used, of the corks, and of the method 
of good closing. 



(15) 

BOTTLES AND VESSELS 

I have chosen glass as being the ma- 
terial most impermeable to air. I have 
not risked a trial with other materials. 
The ordinary bottles generally have the 
openings too small and are poorly made ; 
they are too weak in other respects to 
resist the blows of the pallet and the 
action of the heat. Therefore I have 
had bottles made expressly, having 
larger openings and with contractions, 
that is to say, with a ridge extending 
into the interior of the opening below 
the cord-line (or ring) . My object was 
that the cork introduced with force upon 
the bottle-holder, of which I have 
spoken, with the assistance of the pal- 
let, up to three-quarters of its length, 
was constricted through the middle. In 
this manner the bottle is found perfectly 
closed to the exterior and equally so to 
the interior. This opposes therefore an 
obstacle to the expansion which is pro- 
duced upon the substances enclosed in 
the bottle, by the application of heat. 



(16) 

This manner of closing is so much the 
more indispensable, since I have ob- 
served many times that the expansion 
was so strong that it forced out the corks 
two, three, and four lignes ( 1 ) , though 
secured by two cross wires. The bottles 
and jars should be of lightly tempered 
material, the former twenty-five to 
twenty-six ounces in weight for a liter 
capacity, in which the glass be dis- 
tributed equally; otherwise they break in 
the water-bath at the place where they 
are charged heaviest with matter. The 
form used for Champagne is the most 
suitable, the best looking, permits better 
arrangement, and is more resistive than 
the others. 

STOPPERS. 

It is in general poor economy, due to 
misapprehension, that of paying only 
twenty and even forty sols (2) for a 

(1) Ligne— 0.08" 

(2) Sol — 6 centimes (one cent American 
money) 



(17) 
hundred corks, though having the allure- 
ment of two centimes that you believe 
gained upon a cork, you often sacrifice 
by this parsimony a bottle of 20, 30s, and 
even of three pounds and over. The bot- 
tles are corked so as to preserve and im- 
prove the object enclosed, in depriving 
it of contact with the air; one cannot 
then give too much care to the good qual- 
ity of the stoppers, which should be 18 
to 20 lignes in length and of the finest 
cork ; these are really the most economi- 
cal. Experiment has proved this so 
true, that as for myself I use only super- 
fine corks for all work. I also take the 
precaution of compressing each cork for 
three-quarters of its length, by means 
of the vise ( Fig. 3 ) , beginning at the 
smaller end ; in compressing in this man- 
ner, the cork becomes more supple, the 
pores are brought closer together, the 
stopper is slightly elongated and re- 
duced in size at the end that enters the 
mouth of the bottle, so that a large stop- 
per may enter into an average opening. 



(18) 
The action of the heat in a vessel thus 
closed is such that the enlarged stopper 
in the interior of the vessel makes a per- 
fect closure. 

CLOSURE. 

After what has been said, the absolute 
necessity of having good bottles is un- 
derstood, the material of whidi should 
be distributed uniformly and with a 
small thread extending into the interior 
of the opening. It is also necessary to 
have superfine stoppers, pressed for 
three-quarters of their length by the 
vise. Before putting in the corks, I am 
careful that the bottles containing liquid 
are filled only to three inches of the cord- 
line (or ring) , so as to avoid the break- 
age that would necessarily follow from 
the expansion produced by the applica- 
tion of the heat in the water-bath if the 
bottles were too full; as for vegetables, 
fruits, plants, etc., two inches from the 
ring or cordline suffice. I place the full 
bottle upon the bottle-holder, already 
cited, before which I am seated. This 



(19) 
apparatus should be provided with a 
strong wooden pallet with a small jug 
full of water, and a well sharpened 
knife, greased With a little tallow or 
soap so as to cut the heads of corks, 
which ought rarely to be found extend- 
ing beyond the exterior of the bottle. 
The objects arranged, I draw the bottle- 
holder between my legs, and introduce 
into the bottle a suitable stopper after 
having wet half of it in the vessel of 
water, so that it may enter more easily, 
and after having wiped the end, I press 
it in this position with my left hand 
which I hold steady so that the bottle 
may be perpendicular. I take the pallet 
with my right hand so as to push the 
cork in with force. When I feel after 
the first or second blow that the cork 
has entered a little, I stop so as to take 
the neck of the bottle in that hand, which 
I hold firm and perpendicular upon the 
bottle holder, and with repeated blows 
of the pallet I continue forcing the 
stopper in to three-fourths of its length. 
The quarter of the stopper which 



(20) 
should always extend beyond the bottle 
after having resisted the repeated blows 
of the pallet assures me on the one hand 
that the bottle is closed perfectly, and 
on the other hand this excess is necessary 
for the cork to support the two crossed 
wires or tWo strings, so as to hold it 
against the compression which it ex- 
periences in the water-bath. One cannot 
be too careful in attaining a good clos- 
ure ; no small details should be neglected 
in order that the substance which is to 
be preserved should be rigorously ex- 
cluded from contact with the air since it 
is the destructive agent most to be 
feared. (1.) 



(1) Many persons believe that they have made 
a good closing when the cork is forced level 
with the mouth of tlie bottle, but it is quite the 
contrary; the general rule, when the cork does 
not resist the repeated blows of a strong pallet, 
and is pushed entirely into the bottle, is that 
it is always prudent to withdraw it and substi- 
tute another more suitable. Thus to believe 
that a bottle closed so low is properly closed, 



(21) 
The bottles thus properly closed, I 
further secure the stoppers by two 



though it does not come out on reversing it, is 
a mistake which, joined to the poor quality of 
the corks that are used, cause much loss. He 
who corks with care is assured of good closure 
by the resistance of the stopper to the blows of 
the pallet, and reversing the bottle is never to 
be considered. On the other hand it is not only 
necessary to give consideration to the openings 
that are found in the cork but to all the hidden 
defects that may exist in the interior of 
even the finest, defects through which the 
air may be introduced, so that it is felt to be 
an indispensable necessity to use only the best 
corks possible, after having squeezed them 
properly in the vise, and to make the closing 
sufficiently strong so that the corks may be tied 
through the middle, in order to avoid infinite 
losses that have no other cause than that of poor 
closing ; for if a bottle that has been closed with 
lack of care does not leak at the moment, it is 
because the air has not had time to penetrate 
through the defects that may exist; but like- 
wise, in practise, how much variety in the qual- 
ity of a wine drawn from the same puncheon! 
how much in the bottles from more or less of 
the lees! etc. 



(22) 
crossed wires (this is very easy, it suf- 
fices to have seen it once) . Afterwards 
I put each bottle in a sackcloth or coarse 
canvas, made expressly, and large 
enough to envelop the whole up to the 
stopper. These sacks are made like a 
muff, opening equally through the two 
ends, one of which is gathered with a 
running string, leaving an opening only 
the size of a five franc piece. The other 
end is provided with two strings so as 
to hold the sack round the neck of the 
bottle. By means of these sacks, I can 
dispense with hay or straw in packing 
the bottles in the water-bath, and when 
one is broken in the operation, which 
happens sometimes, the fragments of 
the broken bottles remain in the sacking. 
I thus avoid an infinity of embarrass- 
ments and small accidents that are ex- 
perienced in gathering the splinters of 
bottles scattered in the hay or straw, 
with which I had to contend in former 
times. 

After having spoken of the bottles, 
theii' form and quality, of the stoppers. 



(23) 
the length and the fine cork from which 
they should be made, of the manner of 
proper closing, as well as that of tying, 
of the sacking, its form and use, I shall 
give an idea of the vessels with large 
openings, that is to say, of the jars of 
glass which have openings of 2, 3, and 4 
inches and more in diameter, and of more 
or less capacity, that I use for preserv- 
ing large objects, such as meats, fowl, 
game, fish, eggs, etc. These jars are, 
like the bottles, provided with a cord- 
line (or ring) , not only for re-enforcing 
the opening, but also for receiving the 
wire used to hold the stoppers. I have 
not yet been able to obtain from the 
glass-makers a small thread extendmg 
into the interior, like that in the bottles. 
The closing of these jars, because of 
this defect, is more difficult, and requires 
special care. The cork produces still 
another impediment, especially the very 
fine, when the sheets are too fine and 
wrongly constructed by having the 
pores ascending. It has necessitated 
forming the stoppers of 3, 4, and 5 lay- 



(24) 

ers of cork of 20 to 24 lignes in height, 
glued with good sense, that is to say, the 
pores of the cork placed horizontally, 
with fish glue, prepared in the following 
manner : 

I have dissolved four gros ( 1 ) of well- 
beaten fish glue in eight ounces of water 
over the fire; when dissolved, it was 
strained through fine cloth, then put 
back on the fire so as to reduce it to a 
third of its volume, after which an ounce 
of good brandy of twenty-two degrees 
was added. I have left the whole over 
the fire until reduced to about three 
ounces. The glue, thus prepared, was 
put in a small pot over the hot ashes, 
then the sheets of cork, carefully heated, 
were lightly coated with a brush, so as 
to glue them together; a string was 
passed to the two extremities of the cork, 
so as to hold the sheets lightly squeezed, 
and allow them to dry either in the sun 
or hanging in a gentle heat for about 15 
days. At the end of that time, I have, 

(1) Gros — Vs ounce. 



(25) 
with a cork-cutting knife, given the 
proper form to the corks, and have cut 
them to fit each mouth exactl}^; they 
have been very successful for me. After 
having closed the jars and pushed the 
stoppers in by force with the aid of the 
pallet, and always perpendicular on the 
bottle-holder, I treat them with a luting 
compound. This lute, the composition 
imparted to me by M. Bardel, made of 
quicklime, is exposed to the air after 
being sprinkled with water to dissolve 
and reduce it to a powder. It is held 
in closed bottles or jars until needed. 
This lime, mixed to a white cheese, 
a la piCj to the consistency of paste, 
produces a lute which hardens rapidly 
and which resists the heat of boiling wa- 
ter. With this lute the exterior of the 
cork is coated, the edge of the jars 
wrapped with hemp and with small 
bands of cloth above, is properly sup- 
ported against the cork, and descending 
from it to the cordline (or ring) . After- 
wards, so that the wire would be able to 
hold with greater force in maintaining 



(26) 

the cork, I have placed a piece of cork 7 
to 8 lignes in height, 16 to 18 in diameter 
in the center of a cork too large to have 
the wire have effect. At the center of this 
second cork, applied at the center of the 
large one, I succeeded in making the 
wire hold with force and give the proper 
reinforcement to the cork. 

When everything is foreseen and pre- 
pared, particularly properly closed, wir- 
ed, and enveloped in the sacking, one has 
only to bestow upon all these substances 
thus prepared the application of the 
preservation principle. This final part 
is the most easily done. 

All the vessels or bottles are arranged 
upright in a boiler which is filled after- 
ward with fresh water, so that the ves- 
sels are covered to the cordline (or ring) . 
The boiler is closed with its cover, which 
is set on the vessels; over the cover is 
placed a wet cloth so as to close all out- 
lets and prevent, as far as possible, 
evaporation from the water-bath. As 
soon as the boiler is prepared in this 



(27) 
manner, the fire is placed under it ; when 
the water-bath is at boihng or ebulHtion, 
the same degree of heat is continued for 
more or less time, according to the na- 
ture of the contained objects. At the 
end of the time the fire is promptly re- 
moved into an extinguisher. A quarter 
of an hour after the fire is removed, the 
water is released through the valve; a 
half-hour after the water is removed, 
the boiler is uncovered ; the work is com- 
pleted when the bottles or vessels are 
taken out one or two hours after open- 
ing. The following day, or fifteen days 
after (it is immaterial), the bottles are 
arranged upon laths, like wine, in a tem- 
perate and shaded place ; if the expecta- 
tion is to send them to a distance, it is 
necessary to tar them before putting 
them on the laths, otherwise this last 
operation may be dispensed with; the 
bottles have also been laid upon a ladder 
for three years, the substances having as 
much savor as when they were prepared, 
and yet they had not been tarred. 



(28) 

It can be seen from the preceding that 
all foods that one desu^es to preserve 
should be subjected, without exception, 
to the application of the heat of the 
water-bath in a manner suitable to each 
of them, after having been excluded rig- 
orously from contact with air by the care 
and the processes that have been indi- 
cated. 

The principle of preservation is in- 
variable in its effects, as I have already 
observed. So that all the losses that I 
have experienced in my operations have 
no other cause than that of bad applica- 
tion of the principle, or of forgetfulness 
or negligence in the preparatory proc- 
esses, according to the account of them 
that I have rendered. It happens some- 
times that I do not have entire suc- 
cess in my operations; but who is the 
worker who never makes a mistake? 
May one flatter himself that he can con- 
stantly avoid loss that may be caused 
by a defect existing in a vessel, perhaps 
in the interior of a cork, etc. ? In truth. 



(29) 

these cases are extremely rare, when 
there is attention given. 



(30) 

Means of distinguishing on taking from 
the boiler the bottles or jars which, by 
reason of some accidental cause or 
through the action of heat, or through 
lack of attention in the preparatory 
processes, risk being spoiled. 

Each operation terminated, irrespec- 
tive of what kind, the greatest care is 
taken to examine with the most minute 
attention all the bottles in taking them, 
one after the other, from the boiler. 

I have observed those with defects in 
the glass, as stars and cracks, occasioned 
by the action of the heat of the water- 
bath, or by the wiring when the mouth 
of the vessel is too weak, others which 
show by a slight moisture around the 
cork or by small spots at the mouth that 
the enclosed substance had filtered out 
at the moment of expansion from the 
application of heat in the water-bath; 
these are the two principal observations 



(31) 

that I have made ; as soon as I have dis- 
covered any bottles with these defects, 
that I am certain cannot be preserved, 
they are put aside to make use of later, 
so that nothing be lost. 

The first cause of damage that I wish 
to point out pertains to the quality and 
the poor manufacture of bottles; but 
the second may proceed, first, from a 
poor cork ; second, having a poor mouth ; 
third, having the bottle too full; fourth 
and finally, having bad tying, etc. One 
alone of these faults suffices to lose a 
bottle, with greater reason when there 
is a complication. 

In the application of heat in the wa- 
ter-bath many obstacles are encountered, 
particularly for small peas; because, of 
all foods, they are the most difficult 
to preserve perfectly. This vegetable, 
if gathered too tender or too small, dis- 
solves in water, the bottle is found only 
half full, and this half is not even fit to 
preserve (when by chance I discover 
them in this condition, they are carefully 



(32) 

set aside, so as to make use of them 
later) . If the small peas have been gath- 
ered for two or three days, they have lost 
all their flavor on aecomit of the heat; 
they harden, they ferment before the 
operation, the bottles break with detona- 
tion in the water-bath; those which re- 
sist breaking successively or are defec- 
tive, can be easily recognized by the juice 
found in the bottle, which is turbid, in- 
stead of which the properly preserved 
small peas have clear juice. 

It is not necessary to recommend 
celerity and the greatest cleanliness in 
the preparation of foods; this is indis- 
pensable, particularly for those which 
are to be preserved. 

All necessary arrangements are made 
in advance, so that nothing be delayed 
and that all the time may be used to ad- 
vantage. 



(33) 

Description of the processes which con- 
stitute my method; its special and par- 
ticular application to each of the sub- 
stances that one desires to preserve, 

POT-AU-FEU. 

I make the customary soup; when 
the meat has three-quarters cooked, half 
of it that had been boned is taken out 
so as to preserve it. The soup made, the 
broth from it is strained; after it has 
cooled, it is put in bottles, which have 
been properly closed, tied, and each one 
wrapped in sacking. The beef, three- 
quarters cooked, which was removed, is 
put in wide-mouthed bottles covered 
with some of the same broth. After 
having properly closed, luted, tied, and 
put them in sacking, they are placed up- 
right in a boiler with the bottles con- 
taining the soup ; the boiler is filled with 
fresh water, so that the bottles and jars 
are covered up to the cordline (or ring) ; 



(34) 
the cover is placed on the boiler, making 
it set over the vessels, after having care- 
fully wrapped it with the wet cloth so 
as to close all outlets and prevent, as 
far as possible, evaporation from the 
water-bath; then fire is put under the 
boiler; when the water-bath has been 
in ebullition or up to boiling, the same 
degree of heat is maintained for an hour, 
after which the fire is carefully removed 
in an extinguisher. A half -hour after, 
the water is let out from the water-bath 
through the valve which is found in the 
base of the boiler ; at the end of another 
half -hour, the boiler is uncovered; an 
hour or two after the opening of the 
boiler (the time is immaterial — it de- 
pends more or less on the care which the 
boiler requires), the bottles and jars 
are removed; the stoppers are coated 
the following day with white resin, so as 
to send them out to various seaports. 
At the end of a year or eighteen months, 
the soup and the meat have been found 
as good as if made the same day. 



(35) 

CONSOMME 

In the year 12, having hopes of fur- 
nishing the supplies for the invalids on 
board His Majesty's vessels, after hav- 
ing made various experiments in sea- 
ports, by order of His Excellency, the 
Minister of Marine and the Colonies, 
upon food products preserved by my 
method, I made the necessary arrange- 
ments to respond to the demands on 
which I had occasion to count. Conse- 
quently, in order to have less multipli- 
cation of jars, and to be able to put 
eight liters of soup in a bottle, I made 
the following experiment. Usually, as 
evaporation is conducted only at the ex- 
pense of the object which it is desired 
to dry, (1)1 have prepared a dark con- 



(1) Jellies, meat essences, the foundation of 
glaees, and bouillon tablets, which are obtained 
from the soft white parts of animals, with the 
help of the horns of deer and of fish glue, 
preserved until hard by means of evaporation 



(36) 

somme from two pounds of good meat 
and fowl per liter. The consomme be- 
ing made, strained, and cooled, is put 
in bottles. Then having been properly 
closed, tied, and put in sacking, it is 
placed in the boiler. The best pieces of 
beef and fowl are removed when a 
quarter cooked. When these pieces had 
cooled, they were put in large-mouthed 
bottles and the meat covered with the 
same consomme. After having properly 
closed, luted, wired, and put in sacking, 
they were placed upright in the same 
boiler with the bottles of consomme. 
Having filled the boiler with cold water 
to the cordline (or ring) of the vessels, 
and having covered and provided the 
cover with a wet cloth, the fire is put 
under the water-bath. When it reaches 
the boiling point, this degree of heat is 
continued for two hours, and the opera- 



through drying in stoveS;, offer only artificial 
maintenance, without savor and without taste 
other than that of empyreuma and of mustiness, 
etc. 



(37) 
tion finished like the preceding. The 
beef and the fowl, as well as the con- 
somme, were found suitably cooked and 
preserved for more than two years. 

BOUILLON OR PECTORAL JELLY 

This jelly is prepared according to 
the prescription of a physician, with 
calves' lungs and feet and a sufficient 
quantity of red cabbage, carrots, tur- 
nips, onions, and leeks ; a quarter of an 
hour before taking the jelly from the 
fire, candied sugar with Senegal gimi 
are added. It is strained as soon as 
made, after which it is cooled, put in 
bottles, closed, tied, enveloped in sack- 
ing, and placed in the water-bath for a 
quarter of an hour's boiling, etc. The 
jelly was perfectly preserved, besides 
being as good as if it had been made 
today. 

FILET OF BEEFj MUTTON^ FOWL^ AND 
PARTRIDGE. 

All of these substances have been pre- 
pared just as for daily use, but only 



(38) 
three-quarters cooked, in the same man- 
ner as roasted partridges. When all 
have cooled, thej^ are put separately into 
wide-mouthed bottles. After having 
been properly closed, luted, tied, and put 
in sacking, all are placed in the water- 
bath so as to give a half -hour's boiling, 
etc. These substances were sent to Brest, 
where they have been put in the sea for 
four months and ten days with preserved 
vegetables, consomme, and milk, the 
whole well packed in a chest. When the 
opening w^s made, all the substances, 
eighteen in number, were tasted. They 
were found with all their freshness, and 
not a single jar was found showing al- 
teration from the sea. 

To these four experiments, I have 
added two others that I have done — one 
on a fricassee of chicken, and the other 
on a matelote of eels, carp, and pike, 
garnished with veal sweetbreads, mush- 
rooms, onions, and anchovy butter, the 
whole cooked in white wine. The chicken 
fricassee and the matelote were pre- 
served perfectly. 



(39) 
These results prove sufficiently that 
the same principle applied through the 
same preparatory processes, with the 
same care and precautions, in general, 
preserve all animal productions, being 
mindful not to give any of them in 
preparation more than three-quarters 
cooking at the most, so as to give the ad- 
ditional cooking in the water-bath. 

Most of these substances, such as 
bouillon, consomme, the jellies, and the 
essences of meats, fowl, and ham, the 
juices of plants, the must and syrup of 
grapes, etc., are able to stand an hour's 
boiling or more in the water-bath with- 
out any danger, but to many of the 
others a quarter of an hour, even a min- 
ute, too long would be injurious. Thus 
the results are always subordinate to 
the intelligence, the celerity and the 
knowledge of the manipulator ( 1 ) . 



(1) "One does not speak in the workrooms 
(said the celebrated Chaptal, Elements of 
chemistry, preliminary discourse, p. XXXI.) 



(40) 
FRESH EGGS. 

The freshest eggs are most resistive 
to the heat of the water-bath; in conse- 
quence, I have taken the day's eggs, 
which are arranged in a short-necked 
bottle with raspings of bread to fill the 
spaces and to guarantee the eggs from 
breaking during the voyages. The bot- 
tles are properly closed, luted, tied, etc. 
They are put into a large kettle of suf- 



because of the caprices of the operations; but 
it appears that this vague statement has taken 
birth in the ignorance in which the workers are 
of the true principles of their art; because na- 
ture is not influenced by determination and 
discernment; it obeys constant laws. The dead 
matter which we employ in our workshops, pre- 
sents the requisite effects in which the will has 
no part, and in which consequently it could not 
know nor have caprices. "Know belter your 
original materials/' could be said to the work- 
men^ "study better the 'principles of your art, 
and you can foresee all, predict all, and calcu- 
late all; it is only your ignorance that makes of 
your operations a continual groping, and a dis- 



(41) 
ficient size ( 1 ) so as to give them 60 and 
90 degrees heat. Afterward the water- 
bath is removed from the fire; when it 
has cooled so that the hand can be held 
in it, the eggs are removed from it and 
kept six months. At the end of that pe- 



couraging alternative of success and reverse/' 
In short, the manipulator who works with a 
perfect knowledge of the principles of his art 
and of the result of its application, will be 
surprised and astonished by a loss or a reverse 
that he may experience in his operations, and 
far from attributing it to caprice, will discover 
the cause of this loss to be the neglect of some 
necessary precaution in the application of the 
same principle; the reverses will serve him as 
standards to better calculate and perfect the 
preparatory processes. As he acquires the con- 
viction of the invariability of his principle in its 
effects, he knows that all loss or reverse can 
only proceed from poor application. 

(1) This operation on a large scale, that is to 
say, in a large boiler, will require more care, in 
that it is more difficult to control the degree of 
heat than in a small water-bath which is changed 
at will. 



(42) 

riod, the eggs are taken out of the bot- 
tle; they are placed on the fire in fresh 
water to which 60 to 90 degrees of heat 
are given. They were cooked properly 
for the sippet, and also as fresh as when 
they had been prepared. As for the 
hard eggs, treated a la tripe or a la 
blanche sauce, etc., they are given 80 de- 
grees of heat in the water-bath, that is to 
say, when the boiling starts, they are 
removed from the fire. 

MILK. 

Twelve liters of milk fresh from the 
cow have been taken, set in the water- 
bath and reduced to two-thirds of its 
volume, skimming it often. Afterwards 
it is strained through cloth ; when cooled, 
the skin which had formed on it in cool- 
ing is removed, and the milk is put in 
bottles with the ordinary processes, and 
then in the water-bath for two hours' 
boiling, etc. At the end of some months 
it was noticed that the cream had sep- 
arated in flakes and was floating on the 



(43) 
surface in the bottle. In order to avoid 
this objection, a second experiment was 
made with an equal quantity of milk 
which had been reduced in the water- 
bath by a half instead of a third, as in 
the first. I conceived adding to it, when 
it was reduced, eight fresh egg yolks 
diluted ^vth the same milk. After hav- 
ing left the whole thus well mixed a 
half -hour over the fire, it was finished 
as in the former experiment. 

This method has succeeded perfectly. 
The egg yolks had so thickened it 
all that at the end of a year, and even 
eighteen months, the milk was preserved 
so that I have put it in bottles. The for- 
mer was likewise preserved for two years 
and more; the cream which had formed 
in flakes disappeared on putting it on 
the fire, both of them tolerating the same 
heating. From both of them butter 
and whey were obtained ; in the different 
experiments and chemical analyses to 
which they had been submitted it has 
been recognized that the latter, truly su- 



(44) 
perior, could replace the best cream that 
is sold in Paris for coffee. 

CREAM. 

Five liters of cream, skimmed care- 
fully from good milk, were concentrated 
without skimming to four liters in the 
water-bath, the skin which had formed 
on it was removed, so as to strain the 
whole through cloth, and put it to cool. 
After having again removed the skin 
that had formed in cooling, it was put 
into half -liter bottles with the ordinary- 
processes, so as to give it an hour's 
boiling in the water-bath. At the end of 
two years this cream was found as fresh 
as if it had been prepared that day. I 
have made good fresh butter from it in 
quantities of 4 to 5 ounces per half -liter. 

WHEY. 

I have prepared whey by the ordinary 
processes in practise. When it was clar- 
ified and cooled, it was put in bottles, 



(45) 
etc., so as to give it an hour's boiling in 
the water-bath. However well clarified 
the whey may be, when put in the water- 
bath, the application of the heat always 
separates from it some particles of 
cheese which form a deposit; I have kept 
it two to three years in this way, and be- 
fore making use of it have filtered it so as 
to have it very clear. In case of haste, it 
suffices to decant it, to obtain it clear. 

VEGETABLES. 

As the difference in climate produces 
more or less early growth, and causes 
much variety in their qualities, their 
species, and their properties, one must 
be governed in consequence by the place 
in which they grow. 

At Paris and in its environs, June 
and July are the best season for pre- 
serving small green peas, small broad 
beans, and asparagus. Later these veg- 
etables lose too much through heat and 
dryness. In August and September I 
preserve artichokes, French and kidney 



(46) 
beans, as well as cauliflowers. In gen- 
eral, all vegetables intended to be pre- 
served should be gathered as late as pos- 
sible and prepared with the greatest 
haste, so that there is only a step from 
the garden to the water-bath. 

SMALL GREEN PEAS. 

The Clamard and the Crochu are the 
two species of peas that I prefer, partic- 
ularly the latter, which is the mellowest 
and the sweetest of all, as well as the 
earliest, after the Michauoc, however, 
which is the earliest of all ; but the latter 
is not suitable for preserving. I do not 
gather them too small, as they soften in 
the water during the operation ; they are 
taken when of medium size as (being 
more advanced) they have much more 
taste and savor. They are shelled im- 
mediately on gathering. The largest 
ones are separated from these, after 
which they are carefully heaped in the 
bottles upon the bench already cited, so 
as to get in as many as possible. They 



(47) 
are closed, etc., so as to put them in the 
water-bath in order to boil for an hour 
and a half, when the season is cool and 
moist, and two hours when it is hot and 
dry; the operation is finished like the 
preceding. 

The large ones which have been sep- 
arated^ from the smaller, are likewise 
put in bottles; they are closed, etc., so as 
to give them, according to the season, 
two hours or two and a half hours boil- 
in the water-bath. 

ASPARAGUS. 

The asparagus is cleaned as for daily 
use, whether whole or in small pieces. 
Before putting it into bottles or jars, 
it is plunged into boiling water and 
then into cold water, so as to remove the 
acridity peculiar to this vegetable; the 
whole ones are arranged carefully in 
jars, the head at the bottom; those pre- 
pared in littles pieces are put in bottles. 
After both are well drained, they are 



(48) 
closed, etc., and put in the water-bath so 
as to receive there a boiling only, etc. 

SMALL BEGAD BEANS. 

Neither the horse-bean, nor even the 
Julienne, which greatly resembles it, is 
good to preserve. I use the true broad 
bean, which is as large as my thumb, 
when it is mature. It is gathered very 
small, the size of my little finger, for to 
preserve the pod. As the pod is suscept- 
ible to contact with the air, which browns 
it, the precaution is taken in shelling to 
put these in the bottles. When the bot- 
tles are filled and heaped lightly on the 
stool, and all the spaces filled, a small 
boquet of savory is added to each bottle. 
They are closed quickly, etc., so as to put 
them in the water-bath to boil for an 
hour, etc. When this vegetable is gath- 
ered, prepared, and manufactured with 
celerity, it is obtained of a greenish 
white; on the other hand, when slow in 
preparation, it browns and hardens. 



(49) 

SHELLED BROAD BEANS. 

To preserve the shelled broad beans, 
they are taken very large, about a half- 
inch or more in length; they are shelled 
and put in bottles with a small bouquet 
of savory, etc., and then put in the wa- 
ter-bath so as to boil for an hour and a 
half, etc. 

FRENCH BEANS. 

The kidney bean known under the 
name Bayolet, which resembles the 
Swiss, is the species which is better suit- 
ed to preserve green; it unites the best 
taste with uniformity; I gather them as 
for daily use. As soon as picked, they 
are put immediately into bottles which 
are carefully heaped when on the bench 
so as to fill the spaces. They are closed, 
etc., and put in the water-bath for an 
hour and a half. When the beans are a 
little larger, they are cut lengthwise into 
two or three pieces ; when cut this way, 
they need only an hour in the water- 
bath. 



(50) 
WHITE BEANS. 

The kidney bean of Soissons merits 
the just title to preference; in default of 
it, I take the best possible, gathering 
them when the pod begins to yellow; 
they are shelled and put in bottles imme- 
diately, etc. They are put in the water- 
bath to boil for two hours, etc. 

WHOLE ARTICHOKES. 

I take them of average size; after 
having removed all the unnecessary 
leaves, and pared them, they are plunged 
into boiling water, and then into cold 
water ; after they have drained, they are 
put in wide-mouthed bottles, closed, etc., 
and then in the water-bath to receive an 
hour's boiling, etc. 

QUARTERED ARTICHOKES. 

The fine artichokes are cut into eight 
pieces; the outer leaves are removed, 



(51) 
only a few being left. They are Dlunged 
into boiling water, then into cold water ; 
when well drained, they are put on the 
stove in a casserole, with a bit of fresh 
butter, seasoning, and fine herbs ; when 
half-cooked, they are removed from the 
stove and put to cool; then they are put 
in wide-mouthed bottles, closed, luted, 
tied, etc., and put in the water-bath to 
boil for a half -hour, etc. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

Like the artichokes, when the cauli- 
flowers are well cleaned, they are plung- 
ed into boiling water, then into cold wa- 
ter ; when they are well drained, they are 
put into wide-mouthed bottles, etc. ; they 
are put in the water-bath so as to give 
them a half -hour's boiling, etc. 

As the years vary and are sometimes 
dry, sometimes wet, one will readily see 
that it is equally necessary to study and 
to vary the degree of heat which is ad- 
visable under the two conditions; it is a 



(32) 

special consideration which should not 
be neglected. 

For example in a cool and moist year, 
the vegetables are tenderer, and conse- 
quently more susceptible to the action 
of heat ; in this case, 7 to 8 minutes less 
boiling in the water-bath should be 
given, and to give as much more in the 
dry years when the vegetables are firmer 
and more resistive to the action of heat, 
etc. 

SORREL. 

I have gathered sorrel, mountain 
spinach, lettuce, white beet, chervil, seal- 
lion, etc., in suitable amounts. When 
they are properly picked, washed, 
drained, and cut, the whole is cooked in 
a copper vessel well tinned. These vege- 
tables should be cooked as for daily use, 
and not dried and scorched, as is often 
done in the home when they are to be 
preserved. This degree of cooking is 
most suitable. When the herb is pre- 
pared in this way, it is put to cool in 



(53) 
earthenware or stoneware vessels; then 
put into bottles of somewhat large open- 
ing, closed, etc., and put in the water- 
bath to be given a quarter-hour's boiling 
only. This time suffices to preserve it 
intact for ten years and also as fresh as 
if it came from the garden. This way is 
without doubt the best and the most 
economical for homes, and civil and mili- 
tary hospitals. It is above all advan- 
tageous for the sailor ; because it may be 
carried thus prepared, to farthest In- 
dia, as fresh and as savory as though 
cooked that daj^. 

SPINACH AND CHICORY. 

These two kinds are prepared as for 
ordinary use ; when they are newly gath- 
ered, cleaned, blanched, cooled, pressed, 
and minced, they are put in bottles, etc., 
so as to boil them a quarter of an hour 
in the water-bath, etc. 

Carrots, cabbage, turnips, parsnips, 
onions, potatoes, celery, Spanish car- 
doons, beets, and in general all vege- 



(54) 
tables, are preserved alike, they may be 
blanched only, or prepared with or with- 
out meat according to the use made of 
them when taken out of the vessel. In 
the former case, the vegetables that are 
to be preserved, are blanched and half- 
cooked in water with a little salt; they 
are removed from the fire so as to drain 
and cool them; afterwards they are put 
into bottles, etc., so as to put them in 
the water-bath and give to the carrots, 
cabbage, turnips, parsnips, and beets an 
hour's boiling, and a half hour to the 
onions, potatoes, celery, etc. In the lat- 
ter case the vegetables are prepared, 
with or without meat, as for ordinary 
use; when they are cooked three-quar- 
ters and properly prepared and seas- 
oned, they are taken from the fire so as 
to let them cool; then put into bottles, 
closed, etc., so as to give a full quarter 
of an hour's boiling in the water-bath, 
etc. 



(55) 

JULIENNE. 

A julienne soup of carrots, leeks, 
turnips, sorrel, French beans, celery, lit- 
tle peas, etc., was prepared in the ordi- 
nary way, which consists of cutting into 
small pieces either round or long, car- 
rots, turnips, leeks, French beans, and 
celery. After having properly picked 
and washed them, the vegetables are 
put with a good bit of fresh butter into 
a casserole on the fire, allowed to half- 
cook in this way, after which the sorrel 
and little peas are added. When all has 
been cooked and reduced, the vegetables 
are moistened with good consomme that 
was prepared expressly with good meat 
and fowl; the whole was boiled for a 
half -hour, then removed from the fire to 
cool, and put into bottles, closed, etc., so 
as to give the julienne a half -hour's boil- 
ing in the water-bath, etc.; it was pre- 
served for more than two years. The 
julienne without meat is made in the 
same way, except that instead of con- 



(56) 
somme, the vegetables are wet, when 
they are properly cooked, with a clear 
puree, that may be made from kidney 
beans, lentils, or from large green peas, 
that have been preserved, and it is given 
likewise a half-hour's boiling in the 
water-bath, etc. 

CULLIS FROM ROOTS. 

I have composed and prepared a cul- 
lis from roots by the ordinary processes. 
It was so dark that soup for a dozen 
persons could be made from a liter, by 
adding two liters of water to it before 
heating as for ordinary use. When 
cooled, it was put into bottles so as to 
give it a half -hour's boiling in the water- 
bath, etc. 

TOMATOES OR LOVE APPLES. 

The tomatoes are gathered well ma- 
tured, when they have acquired their 
fine color. After they have been washed 
and drained, they are cut into pieces and 



(57) 
put to soften in a well tinned copper 
vessel. When they have been softened 
and reduced a third of their volume, 
they were strained through a sieve, suf- 
ficiently fine to retain the seeds; the 
whole strained, the decoction was re- 
placed on the stove, and concentrated so 
that there remained only a tliird of its 
total volume ; after cooling in stone\^ are 
dishes, it was put directly into bottles, 
etc., so as to give it a good boiling only 
in the water-bath, etc. 

I have not yet made experiments 
upon flowers, but there is no doubt that 
this new method will give valuable and 
economical results. 

MEDICINAL AND POT-HERBS. 

I have filled a bottle with peppermint 
in leaf and in full flower, and pressed it 
down with a truncheon so as to make it 
hold more, properly closed, etc., so as 
to give a short boiling in the water-bath, 
etc. It is preserved perfectly. One 
could operate in like manner on all the 



(58) 

plants which one wished to preserve in 
leaf. The preserver will have to calcu- 
late the degree of heat which is suitable 
to give to each of these on which he will 
work. (1.) 



(1) The method of extracting the juice of the 
plants by water has more or less objection; all 
of those, the principle of which is very fugitive 
and easily evaporated, lose excessively, even in 
lukewarm water, and much more, when the 
water is raised to a higher degree of heat and 
when the plants are left a long time to digest. 
The aromatic plants are infused, when it is 
desired to preserve the aroma, and not to charge 
the water with the extractive principle which 
the plant contains. In this way tea and coffee 
are made by infusion; all the theories, ancient 
and modern, and all the new apparatus con- 
ceived for holding the aroma of coffee, also leave 
much to be desired. 

Boiling which is often employed for extract- 
ing the aroma from plants by means of distilla- 
tion, notwithstanding that all the apparatus 
used is closed, denatures the products oftenest. 
Not only the principles extracted by the water 
which are already lost through this primary 
operation, but there is scarcely any of the prop- 



(59) 

JUICES OF HEEBS. 

I have preserved very well the juices 
of plants, such as those of lettuce, cher- 
vil, borage, wild chicory, watercress, etc. 
They were prepared and cleansed by the 
ordinary processes, closed, etc., so as to 
boil them in the water-bath, etc. 

FRUITS AND THEIR JUICES. 

Fruits and their juices demand the 
greatest celerity in the preparatory pro- 
cesses, and particularly in the applica- 
tion of the heat in the water-bath. 



erty remaining after the evaporation to which 
they have been subjected to form the extracts. 
The extracts can therefore represent only the 
semblance of the soluble and nutritive proper- 
ties of the vegetable and animal substances, 
since the heat necessary for forming the extract 
by means of evaporation, destroyed the aroma 
and nearly all of the properties which the sub- 
stance contained. 



(60) 

It is not necessary to await perfect 
maturity of fruits to preserve them 
whole or in quarters, because they soften 
in the water-bath; it is also not best to 
take those at the beginning of the sea- 
son, nor those at the end. The first and 
the last are never of as good quality or 

perfume as those which are gathered in 
the proper season, which is when the 
major part of the harvest is found in 
maturity. 

RED AND WHITE CURRANTS IN CLUSTERS. 

I have gathered the red and white 
currants separately, not too ripe; I se- 
lect the best, and the finest and most 
suitable clusters; put them in bottles 
with care to heap them lightly when on 
the bench, so as to fill the spaces; after 
which they are closed, etc., put in the 
water-bath, and given careful attention 
so that as soon as it starts in ebullition 
or to boil, it is removed quickly from the 



(61) 
stove, and a quarter of an hour after, 
the water is let out of the bater-bath 
through the valve, etc. 

RED AND WHITE CURRANTS PICKED. 

The red and white currants are picked 
separately, put in bottles and completed 
like those in clusters, with equal care in 
the water-bath. I preserve many more 
of the picked, because the clusters al- 
ways give a harshness to the juice. 

CHERRIES^ RASPBERRIES^ MULBERRIES^ 
and BLACK CURRANTS. 

These fruits are gathered not too ripe, 
so that they may crush less in the opera- 
tion. They are put separately into bot- 
tles and heaped lightly when on the 
bench, closed, etc., and finished like, and 
with equal care as, currants. 

JUICE OF RED CURRANTS. 

The red currants are gathered well 
ripened, crushed upon a fine sieve, and 



(62) 
the marc which remains on the sieve put 
in the press so as to extract all the juice 
that may remain, which is mixed with 
the first. The whole is perfumed with 
a little strawberry juice. The decoc- 
tion is then passed through a finer sieve 
than the first, put in bottles, etc., and 
then in the water-bath, giving the same 
attention as for currants, etc. 

I work in the same way with the juice 
of white currants, and thorny barber- 
ries, as well as with those of pomegran- 
ate, oranges, lemons, etc. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

I have made many different kinds of 
experiments upon the strawberry with- 
out being able to obtain its perfume; it 
has been necessary to have recourse to 
sugar. Consequently I have crushed 
and strained the strawberries on the 
sieve as in making jellies, for a pound of 
strawberries, a half pound of powdered 
sugar is added with the juice of half a 
lemon, the whole well mixed, and the 



(63) 
decoction put into bottles, closed, etc., 
left in the water-bath until ebullition 
started, etc. This method has succeeded 
very well, except that much of the color 
was lost, but that deficiency can be sup- 
plied. 

APRICOTS. 

For the table, the common apricot and 
the apricot peach, the two most thriv- 
ing, are the best kinds for preserving. 
Those on the espalier do not have near- 
ly so much flavor and aroma. Ordinar- 
ily I mix enough of the two kinds to- 
gether, inasmuch as the first sustains the 
other which has more juice and which 
softens more through the action of the 
heat; however, one can prepare them 
separately, if the precaution be taken to 
give a few minutes less in the water- 
bath to the apricot peach; that is to say, 
it is necessary to remove it from the 
stove as soon as the water-bath com- 
mences to boil, whereas for the other, it 
is not removed from the fire until after 
the water-bath is at the first boiling. 



(64) 
The apricots are gathered when ripe, 
but slightly firm, that is when by press- 
ing lightly between the fingers, the stone 
is detached. As soon as gathered, I cut 
them in halves lengthwise, remove the 
stone, and the thinnest skin possible. 
According to the opening of the vessels, 
if they be in halves or in quarters, I put 
them in bottles, tap them on the bench 
so as to fill the spaces ; to each bottle is 
added 12 to 15 of the almonds from the 
stones which have been broken ; they are 
closed, etc., and put in the water-bath 
to give only a boiling, and immediately 
removed from the stove with the same 
precaution employed with regard to the 
currants, etc. 

PEACHES. 

The large Mignonne and the Calande 
are the two kinds of peaches in which 
are united the best quality and aroma ; in 
default of these two kinds, the best pos- 
sible are taken for preserving' by the 
same processes as those employed for 
apricots. 



(65) 

NECTARINES. 

The nectarine is taken well-ripened, 
that is to say, riper than the peach, inas- 
much as it holds up better under the 
action of the heat, and besides the skin 
is left on in preserving. As to the rest, 
I operate in the same manner as for ap- 
ricots and peaches, and always look after 
the water-bath, as for currants. 

GKEENGAGES AND MIEABELLE PLUMS. 

I have used the greengages whole, as 
well as the other large plums, with stem 
and nut, and even the Perdrigons, and 
the Alberges, which have succeeded very 
well with me; but the objection is that 
very few of these large plums are con- 
tained in a large vessel since in heaping 
them up, one cannot fill the spaces, at 
least without totally crushing them, and 
after they have been subjected to the 
action of the heat in the water-bath, they 
are reduced so that the vessels are half 



(66) 
empty. Consequently I have given up 
this method as too expensive and have 
preserved the large plums only after 
cutting them in halves and removing 
the stone. This method is easier and 
more economical; the stoppers of the 
size to close the large vessels were much 
dearer and the very fine cork scarcer ; on 
the other hand, the vessels of small or 
average opening are much easier to close 
properly and in consequence the opera- 
tion is more certain. As to the Mirabelle 
and all other small plums, they are pre- 
pared whole with the stones, after hav- 
ing removed the stem, because they are 
more easily heaped up, and leave only 
very small spaces in the vessels. For all 
plums, whole or cut in halves, generally 
the same processes are employed, with 
the same care and attention as for the 
apricot and the peach. 

PEARS or AJLL KINDS. 

When the pears are peeled, cut in 
quarters, and cleaned of their seeds, as 



(67) 
well as the cores, they are put in bottles, 
etc., for to put in the water-bath. The 
degree of heat is watched carefully, so 
that they should only come to ebullition, 
when they are arranged with a knife. 
To cook the pears they are given 5 or 6 
minutes boiling in the water-bath. For 
the fallen pears it is necessary to give a 
quarter-hour's boiliag, etc. 



CHESTNUTS. 

The head of the chestnut is pricked 
with the point of a knife as for parching 
them. They are put in bottles, etc., so 
as to give them a boiling in the water- 
bath, etc. 

TRUFFLES. 

After having properly washed and 
brushed the truffles to remove all the 
earth, the surface is taken off lightly 
with a knife. Afterward, according to 
the diameter or the opening of the mouth 
of the vessels, they are put in bottles. 



(68) 

whole or cut in pieces ; the residue is put 
in separate bottles; all properly closed, 
etc. They are put in the water-bath to 
receive an hour's boiling, etc. ( It is not 
necessary to enjoin that the truffles 
should be wholesome and recently gath- 
ered. ) 

MUSHROOMS. 

Mushrooms are taken, coming out of 
the bed well formed and fairly firm. 
After having picked and washed them, 
they are put in a casserole on the stove 
with a bit of butter or some good olive 
oil so as to draw out the water. They 
are left on the stove until this water is 
reducd to half ; removed to let them cool 
in an earthen pan, then they are put in 
bottles so as to give a good boiling in 
the water-bath, etc. 

GRAPE MUST OR SWEET WINE. 

In 1808, during the vintage, I have 
taken the black grape, gathered from 



(69) 
the vine with care ; after having removed 
the green and rotten ones, they are 
picked from the stem, afterward crushed 
on a fine sieve. The marc which re- 
mained on the sieve is put under the 
press, so as to extract any juice which 
might remain in it. The two products, 
that from the press and that from the 
sieve, are put together into a small cask. 
After having left it to settle for twenty- 
four hours, it is put into bottles, etc., 
so as to give it a good boiling in the 
water-bath, etc. ( 1 . ) When the opera- 
tion is completed, the bottles are re- 
moved from the boiler; the action of the 
heat had precipitated a little color that 
the must had acquired in the prepara- 
tion, and the must had becomel very 
clear. It was arranged on laths in my 
laboratory as one places wine. 

I have repeated all these experiments 
the 10th of September, 1809, in the pres- 



(1) I have put the residues from the punch- 
eon with the marc from the press into the vin- 
tage. 



(70) 
ence of the special commission named by 
His Excellency, the Minister of the In- 
terior, and composed of persons of the 
highest attainment in the art. 

Some newly started experiments as 
well as many others that I propose to 
try upon various substances will be de- 
scribed in a work that I expect to pub- 
lish as soon as I shall be able to report on 
their result. 

Manner of making use of the prepared 
and preserved substances. 

MEATS^ GAME^ EOWL^ FISH. 

An ordinary pot- au- feu of which the 
degree of cooking has been calculated in 
the preparation as well as the applica- 
tion of the heat in the water-bath, need 
not be heated to the degree needed to 
obtain soup and boiled meat. 

For greater economy, and less multi- 
plication of vessels, a good consomme, 
such as indicated, is more desirable, 
since the beef, as well as the consomme. 



(71) 
only needs to be heated, and an average 
of one-half or two-thirds of the water 
which is added to the consomme is ob- 
tained as a good soup. 

Likewise a liter bottle of consomme, 
by means of two liters of water which 
you add to it at the moment of using, 
gives twelve portions of soup by adding 
to it a little salt. In this way one could 
have at home, at little expense, a small 
supply for use during warm weather 
when it is so difficult to be procured, par- 
ticularly in the country. 

All the meats, fowl, game, fish, etc., 
which have received three-quarters cook- 
ing in preparation and the remainder in 
the water-bath, as indicated, on taking 
from the vessel need only be heated to 
the proper degree for serving them on 
the table. If it happens, for example, 
that on taking a substance from a vessel, 
it is not sufficiently cooked, through fail- 
ure of the preparatory processes or 
through not receiving sufficient heat in 
the water-bath, in that case it requires 



(72) 
only putting it on the stove to give it 
the necessary cooking. In consequence, 
when the worker has taken proper care 
that his preparations are seasoned and 
cooked properly, they may be readily 
and conveniently used in all cases, inas- 
much as on the one side one need only to 
heat them, and on the other side, at a 
pinch, they could be eaten cold. 

The substances prepared and pre- 
served in this manner do not require, as 
one might think, to be eaten as soon as 
they are opened. The food from the 
same vessel may be eaten for 8 or 10 
days after it has been opened ( 1 ) , pro- 
vided only that the stopper be replaced 
immediately after one has taken the re- 
quired amount; so that the capacity of 



( 1 ) See the report made to the Society for the 
Encouragement of National Industry, by M. 
Bouriat, in the name of the commission. Two 
half-liter bottles, one of milk, the other of whey, 
opened after twenty to thirty days, had been 
reclosed with little care, yet these two sub- 
stances had preserved all their properties. 



(78) 
the vessel could be regulated from one 
to 25 liters and more according to the 
amount of the presumed consumption. 

MEAT AND FOWL JELLY. 

A jelly well prepared and preserved, 
removed carefully in small portions from 
the vessel, can be used to garnish cold 
meats, or it may be softened easily in the 
vessel in the water-bath, after opening 
it ; afterwards it can be melted on a plate 
so as to reset it as a glaze before serving. 

In a number of emergencies a cook 
lacks the necessary substances to make 
sauces, etc., but with the essence of 
meats, fowl, ham, etc., as well as with 
the foundation of glazes properly pre- 
pared and preserved, he can obtain them 
in a moment. 

BROTH OR PECTORAL JELLY. 

Regarding pectoral jelly, prepared 
and preserved as indicated, the use made 
of it may be, on taking from the bottle, 



(74) 
the diluting of it with more or less boil- 
ing water, or using it cold, in the propor- 
tions deemed by the chefs most suitable 
in the various cases. 

MILK AND CREAM. 

Cream, milk, and whey, prepared and 
preserved as indicated, are used in the 
same way as the fresh in daily use. 

Since cream and milk are preserved 
perfectly in this manner, there is no 
doubt but that one could even preserve 
the creamed side dishes, as well as those 
for ices which, since they had been pre- 
pared and finished before being put in 
bottles, need only to be heated slightly 
in the water-bath, after having been 
opened, so as to facilitate removal from 
the vessel. One could thus procure 
creams and ices in succession and at a 
moment's notice. 

VEGETABLES. 

The vegetables put in bottles without 



(75) 
being cooked and subjected afterward 
to the action of the water-bath in the 
manner indicated need to be prepared 
on taking from the vessel so as to use 
them. This preparation may be accord- 
ing to the taste and the desires of each 
one and may conform to the different 
methods employed in season. It is nec- 
essary to give attention to washing the 
vegetables on taking out of the vessel, 
and likewise so as to facilitate their re- 
moval the bottle is filled with lukewarm 
water, and after draining it of this first 
water, the vegetables are washed in a 
second water a little warmer, and after 
this draining they are prepared with or 
without meat. 

WHITE KIDNEY BEANS. 

As in season, the white kidney beans 
are blanched in water with a little salt 
on removal from the bottle. When 
properly cooked, they are removed from 
the stove, and left in this cooking water 
a half hour and even an hour, so as to 



(76) 
make them tenderer, afterwards they 
are prepared with or without meat. 



FRENCH BEANS. 

In the same way the French beans 
are blanched when they have not been 
cooked sufficiently by the preserving 
processes, which happens sometimes, as 
well as with artichokes, asparagus, cauli- 
flower, etc. If they are sufficiently 
cooked on taking from the vessel, they 
are only washed with hot water, so as 
to prepare them afterwards. 

SMALL GREEN PEAS 

The small green peas are prepared in 
much the same manner. If in season 
they are found poorly prepared, it is 
the cook who receives the blame; but in 
the winter if they are found poor, great 
care is taken to put the blame on the one 
who has preserved them, though poor 
preparations are to be attributed often- 
est to bad butter or oil, or to rancid fat 



(77) 
which was used without care or through 
economy; sometimes they are prepared 
two hours too soon, or left to deteriorate 
and to stick to the bottom of the casse- 
role on the stove, with the result that the 
butter is turned to oil and tastes like 
burned sugar, or they are prepared with- 
out care and in too great haste; it is in 
this way that one is served with the peas 
that are swimming in water; but every 
one to his o^^nn way. Here is mine. 

As soon as the small peas are washed 
and well drained (it is not necessary to 
leave this vegetable in v/ater, any more 
than the broad beans, as it detracts from 
its quality), I put them with a bit of 
good fresh butter in a casserole on the 
stove and add a bouquet of parsley and 
green onions; after having sauted them 
for some time in the butter, I sprinkle 
them with a little starch, just to flour the 
peas, and wet them an instant later with 
boiling water ; they are boiled for a full 
quarter-hour, until the sauce is reduced; 
then seasoned with salt and a little pep- 
per, and left on the stove to reduce 



(78) 
further, when they are removed from 
the fire so as to add, for a bottle of small 
peas, fresh butter as large as a walnut, 
and a tablespoon of powdered sugar. 
They are allowed to stew well until the 
butter is melted, without returning to 
the stove, and then set in a heap on a 
plate that has been heated. I have often 
observed that in adding the sugar to the 
little peas when they are on the stove, 
and giving them only a boiling, the peas 
are shrivelled and the sauce thinned so 
that it cannot be thickened; thus one 
must take great care not to put the sugar 
and the last butter with the peas until 
the moment of serving them, and after 
thev have been withdrawal from the 
stove. It is the only way to finish them 
properly, because the butter should 
never appear in the sauce of little peas, 
no more in summer than in winter. 
There is still another way of preparing 
the little peas, and which should agree 
with many persons; it consists in cook- 
ing them in water only; when they are 
cooked, the water is drained off so as 



(79) 
to stew them with a piece of good fresh 
butter, salt, pepper, and sugar, all to- 
gether on a gentle fire, then to serve 
them at once on a very hot dish. It is 
necessary to take care that the little peas 
should not cook with the seasoning, 
otherwise the butter will become oily, 
and the sugar soften the peas so they 
dissolve in the water. 

BEOAD BEANS. 

The small broad beans are prepared, 
shelled as well as unshelled, by the same 
process and with the same care used with 
little peas. 

The large preserved peas make excel- 
lent puree; they are equally good with 
meat. As regards asparagus, artichokes, 
cauliflower, etc., they are prepared or- 
dinarily after having been washed, etc. 
Peas, beans, kidney beans, and all kinds 
of vegetables, may be three-quarters 
cooked, seasoning them at the time when 
they are to be used without further 
preparation on opening, putting them in 



(80) 

bottles or other vessels, when cooled, 
closing them, etc., and giving them a 
half-hour's boiling in the water-bath ; by 
this means the vegetables may be well- 
preserved, and all prepared, so that one 
could make use of them at the instant, 
without other attention than that of 
heating ; and further it is true that in this 
case the vegetables could be eaten cold ; 
one may avoid in this way all embarrass- 
ment on voyages by land and sea, etc. 

CHICORY AND SPINACH. 

I prepare chicory and spinach in the 
customary way, either with or without 
meat ; each half -liter bottle contains two 
or three dishes, according to their size. 
When only a single dish is needed, the 
bottle is closed, and kept for another 
day. 

JULIENNE. 

After having emptied a liter bottle of 
preserved julienne, I add two liters of 
boiling water with a little salt, and I 



(81) 
have a soup for a dozen to fifteen per- 
sons. 

CULLIS OF BOOTS. 

Like the julienne, cullis of roots, 
purees of lentils, carrots, onions, etc., 
well prepared, furnish excellent soups in 
a moment with the greatest economy. 

All the meals, such as oatmeal, rice, 
barley, semolina, vermicelli, and gener- 
ally all the nourishing and easily di- 
gested pastes, should be seasoned and 
prepared, either with or without meat, 
even with milk, before being subjected 
to the preserving processes, so as to fa- 
cilitate their use at sea or to the armies 
at the time of need. 

TOMATOES. 

I use preserved tomatoes or love ap- 
ples, for the same purpose as in season ; 
on removal from the bottle they need 
only to be heated and properly seas* 
oned. 



(82) 

SORREL. 

As the sorrel preserved by the same 
processes indicated differs in no way 
from that in the month of June, on re- 
moving from the vessel, it is used in the 
same manner as in season. 

MINT. 

As for peppermint and all the plants 
which can be preserved in branches by 
the same processes, they may be used in 
the same manner as herb essences. 

FRUITS. 

The manner of using fruits preserved 
by the processes indicated, consists, 1st, 
to put each fruit as it is found in the 
bottle, in a compotier, without adding 
sugar to it, because many persons, par- 
ticularly women, prefer the fruits with 
their natural juice; these compotes are 
accompanied by another compotier of 
syrup of grapes or of powdered sugar 
for those who like them. I have discov- 
ered from experiments that the syrup of 



(83) 
grapes preserves the aroma and the 
acidity of fruits infinitely better than 
sugar. This is the simplest and most 
economical style of preparing excellent 
compotes, a style so much the more con- 
venient since each one can satisfy his 
taste for more or less sugar. 2nd, to 
make sweet compotes, a pound of pre- 
served fruit is taken, the kind is imma- 
terial, which, on taking from the bottle 
with its juice, is put in a sauce-pan 
on the stove with four ounces of grape 
syrup. As soon as it begins to boil, it 
is taken from the stove, and the scum 

removed by means of a piece of 
crumpled paper that is applied to the 
surface. As soon as it is skimmed, the 
fruit is taken carefully from the syrup 
so as to put it in a compotier. After 
having reduced the syrup on the stove 
to half its volume, it is poured on the 
fruit. The fruits prepared in this way 
are sufficiently sweet, and also as savory 
as a fresh compote made in season. 



(84) 

COMPOTES WITH BRANDY. 

3rd. For the compotes made with 
brandy, which may be of cherries, apri- 
cots, greengages, pears, peaches, Mira- 
belle plums, etc., a pomid of fruit with 
juice, which is taken indiscriminately, is 
put in a sauce-pan on the stove with a 
quarter-pound of grape syrup. When 
about to boil, it is skimmed, after which 
the fruit is taken carefully out of the 
syi'up and put in a vessel; the syrup is 
left on the stove until it is reduced a 
quarter of its volume; afterwards it is 
taken from the stove, so as to add to it a 
glass of good brandy ; and, after having 
been well stirred, the hot syrup is poured 
over the fruit in the vessel, which is care- 
fully closed, so that the fruit is pene- 
trated better by the syrup, etc. 

One may do likewise with the pre- 
served pear and peach of the cooked 
compotes, as well as compotes with Bur- 
gundy wine, with cinnamon, etc. 



(85) 

MARMALADES. 

4th. I make marmalade from apri- 
cots, peaches, greengages, and Mira- 
belle plmns by the following process. 
For a pound of preserved fruit, a half 
pound of grape syrup is used. They 
are cooked over a strong fire, and care- 
fully stirred with a spatula so as to avoid 
burning the fruit; when the marmalade 
is cooked to a light consistence, it is re- 
moved, because the preserves cooked the 
least are always the best. As the pre- 
served fruits give one the facility for 
making preserves in proportion only to 
one's needs, in cooking them lightly, one 
can always have excellent fresh pre- 
serves. 

CURRANT JELLY. 

The way to make currant jelly with 
the juice of preserved fruit is very sim- 
ple ; a half pound of sugar is used for a 
pound of currant juice (which should be 



(86) 
flavored with a little strawberry) . After 
having clarified and cooked the sugar to 
the break, the currant is put in, and is 
given three or four boilings; when it 
falls from the skimmer in small sheets 
no larger than a lentil, it is taken from 
the stove to put it in jars, etc. 

CURRANT SYRUP. 

To make currant syrup the juice is 
heated close to boiling, and removed to 
strain it. By this means it is obtained 
clear and deprived of the mucilage. As 
soon as it is strained, a half pound of 
grape syrup is added for each pound of 
fruit, the whole put on the stove. When 
it is cooked to the consistence of a light 
syrup, it is taken off the stove so as to 
put it in bottles when it is cooled. 

There is a simpler and more economi- 
cal way to make use, not only of currant 
juice but of those of all fruits from 
which acid beverages may be made. This 
consists simply in putting a tablespoon 
of the juice of currant or any other hot- 



(87) 
tied preserve into a glass of water 
slightly sweetened with grape syrup. 
This is easy to have at all times in one's 
own home or to procure at little ex- 
pense some of these juices thus pre- 
served; it is in this way that for fifteen 
years we serve currant juice at home, 
and oftener we prepare this lemonade 
without sugar or syrup. 

ICES. 

I have prepared and made ices from 
currants, raspberries, apricots, and 
peaches, as well as from strawberries, 
preserved as indicated, by the method 
employed in the season for these fruits. 

I have made these experiments to 
forestall any further question of grape 
syrup, maintaining that this product, 
the slightly sour or acid grape syrup, 
brought to perfection at the manufac- 
tory of M. Privat, at Meze, will replace, 
shortly and with advantage, cane sugar 
in the preparation of fruit ices. 



(88) 

As I have already observed, the grape 
syrup preserves the aroma of all fruits 
better than cane sugar. The sugar 
masks the taste of the fruits to such an 
extent that one is obliged to add some 
lemon juice to all fruit ices, so as to 
again restore the aroma; but if the 
slightly sour grape syrup be used, one 
can dispense with lemons and the fruit 
ices are much mellower. The sweet 
grape syrup may be used with success 
with all the cream ices. 

LIQUEURS. 

I have made liqueurs and ratafias 
with the juices of preserved fruits and 
sweetened with grape syrup. These 
preparations yield nothing to the best 
household liqueurs. 

The simple and easy means that I in- 
dicate for preparing all the preserved 
fruits for daily use prove conclusively 
that this method, as certain as it is use- 
ful, will occasion the greatest economy 
in the consumption of cane sugar. The 



(89) 
consumers, and the chefs particularly, 
who through circumstances are obliged 
during the summer to start with a con- 
siderable stock of it for syrups, pre- 
serves, and liqueurs, as well as for 
pharmaceutical articles, through this 
foreign commodity may dispense with 
it; in short it will suffice for them to 
provide their stock of fruits during the 
harvest, and to preserve them by this 
new method, so as to provide sugar only 
in proportion to their needs. It will 
result in that the major portion of all 
the fruits thus preserved will be con- 
sumed without, or with very little 
sugar; that a great deal will be pre- 
pared with grape syrup, and that only 
for indispensable articles, and for 
satisfying habitual consumers, as well as 
a luxury for some tables, that the cane 
sugar will be employed. 

It will follow from this that in a good 
year it mil not be necessary to provide 
a stock of sugar for the time of scarcity, 
and that one will obtain with little ex- 



(90) 
pense the same pleasure with fruits pre- 
served for two, three, and four years, as 
in the years of abundance. 

CHESTNUTS. 

On taking the preserved chestnuts 
from the vessel they are plunged into 
fresh water, powdered with a little fine 
salt, and roasted in the frying pan over 
a bright fire. In this way, they are ex- 
cellent; one may dispense with the wet- 
ting, but it is always necessary that thejr 
be roasted over a bright fire. 

The preserved truffles are employed 
in the same way and for the same pur- 
poses, as when they have been freshly 
gathered, and also mushrooms. 

GRAPE MUST. 

When I made my first experiments 
on preserving grape must in its fresh 
state, instruction upon the means of 
making up the deficiency of sugar in 
the principal things^ in which use is made 



(91) 
of it in medicine and in domestic eco- 
nomy by M, Parmentier was not yet 
known to me. It is from this valuable 
source that I have obtained methods for 
employing in my new experiments two 
hundred bottles of grape must that I had 
preserved six months before. 

1st. I have made very fine grape 
syrup by following the processes of M. 
Parmentier, which I give literally. 

PREPARATION OF GRAPE SYRUP. 

"Twenty-four pints of must are taken 
and half of it put in a large kettle on the 
stove, with care to avoid too strong 
ebullition. New liquor is added in pro- 
portion to the amount evaporated as it is 
skimmed and stirred to increase evapo- 
ration. When the whole of the must is 
added, the liquid is skimmed and taken 
,from the stove, and there is added to it 
either washed ashes, enclosed in a little 
bag, whiting, or chalk reduced to 
powder and diluted previously with a 
little must, until there is no longer effer- 



(92) 
vescence, or a kind of bubbling in the 
liquor, which should be stirred. By this 
means the acid contained in the grapes 
is separated or neutralized; one is as- 
sured that the liquor has no more acid 
when the blue paper which is dipped in 
it is not colored red. Then the kettle is 
replaced on the stove, after having had 
two beaten eggs put in it and left an 
instant to settle. The liquor is filtered 
through woolen cloth fastened to a 
wooden frame, twelve to fifteen inches 
square, in a manner to occupy little 
room; it is boiled anew to continue the 
evaporation. 

So as to know if the syrup be cooked, 
it is let fall from a spoon on a plate ; if 
the drop falls without breaking and 
spreading out, or if in separating in two 
the parts only draw near lengthwise, 
then one judges that it has the required 
consistence. 

It is poured into an unglazed earthen- 
ware vessel, and after it has cooled per- 
fectly, is distributed into bottles of aver- 



(93) 
age capacity, cleaned, dried, properly 
corked, and carried to the cellar. It is 
necessary that a bottle once opened 
should have the neck reversed each time 
that one is served from it, and that it 
should not remain a long time without 
emptying. 

It is hardly possible to determine pre- 
cisely the quantity of chalk or ashes that 
it is necessary to employ, it is less neces- 
sary in the south than in the north, but 
in any case, the excess should not cause 
injury, since it remains on the filter 
mixed with the other insoluble salts and 
the scum. 

If in view of preserving these syrups 
for a longer time, the cooking is carried 
too far, one may be deceived because it 
will not be long in crystallizing in the 
bottom of the bottles and not be thin; 
on the contrary, if it is not evaporated 
sufficiently, it will ferment soon; a 
thrifty housekeeper will not make these 
syrups twice without understanding the 
degree of cooking necessary to give 



(94) 
them, better than one could indicate to 
her, the point at which it is advisable 
that it should be arrested." 

SYRUPS AND RATAFIAS. 

It is with this same syrup that I have 
prepared compotes, preserves, syrups, 
and acid beverages, as well as liqueurs 
and ratafias from all the fruits of which 
I have spoken. 

2d. I have made syrup with the same 
must and by the same processes, except 
that I have only cooked the ratafia light- 
ly, that is to say, a fom^th or less than 
the syrup, desiring to be assured if by 
means of the application of the heat of 
the water-bath by the indicated pro- 
cesses it would be preserved. The syrup, 
when cooled, I have put into three half 
liter bottles, one full and the two others 
having a space of a quarter and a half; 
I have closed, tied, etc., and sub- 
jected them in the water-bath to boiling 
only, etc. I have not noticed any differ- 
ence in the full bottle from those partly 



(95) 

empty, and all three are preserved per- 
fectly. 

3d. I have taken six pints of pre- 
served grape must to which has been 
added two pints of good old brandy, 
of twenty-two degrees, with two pounds 
of grape syrup that I had prepared. 
This preparation, mixed well, has served 
to make four different liqueurs by means 
of infusions of apricot stones, mint, 
orange flower, and anise seed that had 
been jprepared in advance; these 
liqueurs, well filtered, have been found 
very good and sweet enough. 

4th. I have taken two bottles of pre- 
served must, opened, and transferred the 
mustl to two other clean bottles, that 
have been immediately closed and tied; 
these two bottles were left upright for 
ten days ; after this interval, the liqueur 
blew the cork out like the best cham- 
pagne, and effervesced similarly. 

5th. I have repeated this last experi- 
ment in the same manner. After twelve 



(96) 
to fifteen days, not noting any appear- 
ance of fermentation in the bottles, I 
opened them so as to restore air to them, 
and put a tablespoonful of raspberry 
juice into two of them. After having 
reclosed and tied them, they were left 
upright again for eight days ; at the end 
of this time, the white and the red had 
blown out the cork; they effervesced 
perfectly and were of very agreeable 
taste, particularly the red, flavored with 
the raspberries. 

After the experiments made with the 
Massy grape, it is more than probable 
that in the south as well as in good vine- 
yards, one may obtain infinitely valuable 
results by making use of this method. 
One may preserve grape must for sweet 
syrup in this manner by concentrating 
at will to the consistence of syrup after 
having deacidified it for sweet syrup; 
or if these syrups are concentrated on 
the stove, to 25, 30, or 33 by aerometer, 
which degree is immaterial, they may be 
preserved for many years by submitting 
them to heat in the water-bath according 



(97) 
to the preparatory processes that I have 
employed. 

By means of these processes, easy to 
put in practice, and above all of slight 
expense in execution, one may obtain 
syrups clearer, whiter (they might be 
made of black grapes), and of a frank 
and free sweetness, devoid of the taste 
of molasses and of caramel ; this, one has 
not yet been able to avoid in grape syrup 
when it is desired to give a degree of 
cooking suitable for keeping. 

It is in this manner that, preserved in 
bottles or demijohns of any capacity, 
this valuable product can be exported to 
long distances, in all seasons, and come 
from Bergerac, from Meze, and from all 
the manufactories of the South, improv- 
ing the products of our small vineyards, 
and permitting all classes of society to 
enjoy this useful resource. 

From the statement of all the experi- 
ments, given in detail, it is seen that this 
new method of preservation is founded 
on a unique principle, the application of 



(98) 
heat of suitable degree to various sub- 
stances after having deprived them as 
far as possible from contact with air ( 1 ) . 
It is not in question here, as in the ex- 
periments of the chemists of Bordeaux, 
the destruction of the mass of foods, 
having on one side the animal jelly and 
on the other the fiber deprived of all its 
juice and resembling cooked leather. It 
is not the question, as with bouillon tab- 
lets, of preparing at great expense a 



(1) At the first glance one might believe that 
a substance, either raw or prepared on the stove, 
afterwards put in bottles, after having been 
vacuumized, and closed perfectly, would be pre- 
served similarly without the application of the 
heat of the water-bath. This would be a mis- 
take because all the attempts that I have made, 
have demonstrated that the two essential factors, 
the absolute deprivation from contact with the 
exterior air (that which is found in the interior 
need not cause anxiety, because it has been ren- 
dered harmless by the action of the heat) and 
application of the heat in the water-bath are 
indispensable to each other for the perfect pres- 
ervation of foods. 



(99) 
tenacious paste more adapted to de- 
range the stomach than to furnish a 
healthful food. 

The problem consists in preserving all 
nutritive substances with their charac- 
teristic and constituent properties. This 
is a problem which I have solved, as has 
been demonstrated by my experiments. 



(1) Some distinguished men, but perhaps too 
bookish in their spirit of system and of preju- 
dice, have declared against my method, alleging 
a pretended impossibility. 

Yet, according to the principles of sound phil- 
osophy is it then so difficult to produce proof 
for the cause of the preservation of foods by 
my process.'* Cannot one see that the applica- 
tion of heat in the water-bath should slowly 
work a fusion of the constituent and ferment- 
able principles, so that there is no longer any 
agent there of the fermentation that dominated; 
this predominance is an essential condition in 
order that the fermentation take place at least 
with a certain promptitude. The air, without 
which there is no fermentation, being excluded. 



(100) 
It is to the solution of this problem 
that I have given twenty years of work 



there are two essential causes which can render 
proof of the success of my method, the theory 
of which naturally appears the result from the 
means put in practise. 

In short, if one brings together all the known 
methods, all the experiments and the observa- 
tions which have been made in ancient and 
modern times upon the means of preserving 
foods, one will everywhere recognize the heat as 
the principal agent that directs, it may be hard- 
ening, it may be the preservation of vegetable 
and animal products. 

Fabroni has proved that heat applied to grape 
must destroys the ferment of this vegeto-animal, 
M^hich is pre-eminently the leaven. Thenard has 
made similar experiments upon currants, cher- 
ries, and other fruits. The heat experiments of 
Vilaris and of M. Cazales, learned chemists of 
Bordeaux, which have been made in desiccating 
meats by means of stoves, proved likewise that 
the application of heat destroys the agents of 
putrefaction. 

Desiccation, boiling, evaporation, as well at 



(101) 
and thought as well as my fortune. 
Blessed already in being able to serve 
my fellow-citizens and humanity I rely 
on the justice, generosity, and intelli- 
gence of a wise government, that never 
ceases to encourage and protect all use- 
ful discoveries. It will be seen that 
the author of this method of preserva- 
tion will not be able to obtain from 
the discovery even recompense for his 
pains and expenses. The greatest im- 
portance, in short, of this process, its 
principal use is for the needs of 
civil and military hospitals, and parti- 
cularly for those of the navy. It is in 
these administrations that I can find 
employment for my methods in. a man- 
ner useful to the state, as well as the 
just reward for my labor. I await the 
gracious inspection of the Ministry, and 
my hopes will not be deceived. 



caustic or savory substances that are employed 
for the preservation of alimentary products 
serve to prove that the heat produces similar 
ejffects, etc. 



(102) 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

The bottles and other vessels of any 
capacity, suitable for the preservation 
of foods, require only a small number to 
be made at one time. One can always 
use them anew, provided they be rinsed 
as soon as emptied. Good cork, twine, 
and wire, are not a large expense. As 
soon as this method becomes known, 
one will find suitable bottles and vessels 
at crockery-ware dealers, corks of all 
sizes and squeezed in the vise will be fur- 
nished by the cork-cutters, as well as the 
prepared wire. It is always prudent to 
procure the corks before the bottles so 
as to supply oneself with those that have 
openings proportionate to the size of 
the stoppers that one has; because it 
may happen, as I have found often, that 
one may not be able to find corks of 
the desired sizes. 

The glass-works of Garre, of Seves, 
and of Premontres near Coucy-le-Cha- 
teau, are already manufacturing bottles 



(103) 
and jars necessary to the method of 
preservation. The last, which has fur- 
nished them to me for four years, is the 
one with which I am best satisfied. The 
means of properly closing depends on a 
little practise only ; to close a dozen bot- 
tles with confidence and precision will 
suffice to familiarize one with the man- 
ner, more particularly with the glass. 
Everywhere and every day, wines, li- 
queurs, etc., are put in bottles to voyage 
by land and sea to the most distant 
regions; even glass demijohns of forty 
and eighty liters capacity, full of oil of 
vitriol and other liquids, have made voy- 
ages. It will be the same with all ani- 
mal and vegetable products preserved 
in bottles or other glass vessels when 
one acquires the habit of using the nec- 
essary care and precautions. It is what 
one needs most. How much valuable 
liqueurs and other valuable substances 
should be better preserved and which 
are often lost or altered for the want of 
having been properly corked ! 

No one will doubt after all the ex- 



(104) 

periments which I give in detail that 
the putting in practise of this new meth- 
od which, as one can judge for himself, 
unites to the greatest economy a degree 
of perfection hitherto unhoped for, and 
which procures the following advan- 
tages : 

1st. That of considerably diminish- 
ing the consumption of cane sugar and 
of extending to the greatest extent the 
manufacture of grape syrup. 

2d. That of preserving for use 
everywhere and in all seasons, food pro- 
ducts, of medicaments, of which there 
will be occasions of great abundance in 
certain seasons or in various countries; 
substances which are wasted or sold at 
low price, whereas in other circumstances 
they double and quadruple in value, and 
it is even impossible to get them at any 
price; such are, among others, butter 
and eggs. 

3d. That of procuring for the civil 
and military hospitals, likewise for the 



(105) 
army, the most valuable assistance of 
which the details are unnecessary. But 
the greatest advantage of this method 
consists particularly in its application 
to the uses of the navy; for long voy- 
ages it will furnish fresh and whole- 
some nourishment on board the vessels 
of His Majesty, with a saving of more 
than fifty per cent. The sailors, in their 
illness, will have broth and various acid 
beverages, vegetables, fruits, in a word, 
they will be able to enjoy a multitude of 
foods and medicaments which alone will 
often suffice to prevent or to cure the 
diseases which are contracted at sea, and 
principally and most dreaded of all, 
scurvy. These advantages are well 
worthy of fixing the attention, when one 
reflects that the salted provisions, and 
above all their poor quality, have done 
more to destroy men than shipwreck and 
the fury of combat. 

4th. The physician will find in this 
method the means of relieving humanity, 
by the readiness in finding everywhere, 
and in all seasons, the animal substances 



(106) 
and all the vegetables as well as their 
juices, preserved with all their qualities 
and natural virtues; through the same 
means he will obtain infinitely valuable 
assistance in the products of remote re- 
gions preserved in all their freshness. 

5th. From this method a new branch 
of industry will result relative to the 
productions of France, through the ex- 
portation and importation into the in- 
terior and to foreign parts, of the com- 
modities of which nature has favored the 
different countries. 

6th. This method will facilitate the 
exportation of the wines from many 
vineyards. In fact, the wines which 
are scarcely able to hold up for a year, 
and, yet without changing, may be sent 
to foreign lands and be preserved many 
years. 

In short, one such invention ought to 
enrich the domain of chemistry, and 
should become a general benefit to all 
nations that derive from it the most 
valuable results. 



(107) 
So many benefits and an infinity of 
others, which present themselves to the 
imagination of the reader, produced by 
one and the same cause only, are a source 
of wonder. 



END. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page 

Preface VII 

Letter from the Minister of the 
Interior to M, Appert IX 

Declaration from the consult- 
ing bureau of arts and man- 
ufactures XII 

Letter to General CaffarelU, 
Naval Prefect at Brest, by 
board of health XII 

Letter from the Secretary of 
the Society for Encourage- 
ment to M. Appert XIV 

Extract of the verbal-trial from 
the sitting of the Council of 
Administration, brought in 
the name of the special com- 
mission by M, Bouriatj upon 
the animal and vegetable sub- 



(110) 1 

stances preserved by M, Ap- 

pert XVII 

The art of preserving animal and 

vegetable substances 1 

Description of the laboratories and 

workshops 9 

Bottles and vessels 15 

Stoppers 16 

Closing 18 

Means of distinguishing the bottles 
or vessels which risk being dam- 
aged 80 

DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESSES OF 

M. Appert. 

Pot-aU'feu 33 

Consomme 35 

Bouillon or pectoral jelly 37 

Filet of beef J mutton, fowl, and 

young partridges 37 

Fresh eggs 40 

Milk . .: 42 

Cream 44 

Whey 44 

Vegetables 45 

Small green peas 46 



(Ill) 

Asparagus 47 

Small broad beans 48 

Shelled broad beans 49 

French beans 49 

White kidney beans 50 

Artichokes J whole 50 

Artichokes J in quarters 50 

Cauliflower 51 

Sorrel 52 

Spinach and chicory 53 

Julienne 55 

Cullis of roots 56 

Tomatoes or love apples 5Q 

Kitchen and medicinal plants 57 

Essences of herbs 59 

Fruits and their juices 59 

Currants J red and white j in clusters . 60 

Currants, red and white j picked .... 61 
CherrieSj raspberries, mulberries, 

and black currants 61 

Juice of red currants 61 

Strawberries 62 

Apricots 63 

Peaches 64 

Nectarines 65 

Greengages and Mirabelle plums . . 65 



(112) 

Pears of all kinds 66 

Chestnuts 67 

Truffles 67 

Mushrooms 68 

Grape must or sweet wine 68 

Manner of using the prepared 

AND preserved SUBSTANCES 70 

Meats, game, fowl, fish 70 

Jelly from 7neat and fowl 73 

Broth or pectoral jelly 73 

Milk and cream 74 

Vegetables 74 

White kidney beans 75 

French beans 76 

Small green peas 76 

Broad beans 79 

Chicory and spinach 80 

Julienne 80 

Cullis of roots 81 

Tomatoes 81 

Sorrel 82 

Mint 82 

Stewed fruits 82 

Stewed with brandy 84 

Marmalades 85 

Currant jelly 85 



(118) . 

Currant syrup 86 

Ices 87 

Liqueurs 88 

Chestnuts 90 

Grape must 90 

Preparation of grape syrup by M. 

Parmentier 91 

Syrups and ratafias 94? 

General observations 102 



END OF THE TABLE. 



^- 













* ^^' 



A^^ 












•1^^ 

























:. V 



* AT ^ • 

../j^^. 









o V 






'o • * 






■^/oC*- 









"oo 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 422 353 6 



'■ ;iV'i'' 



h:... 



liiii; 



, ''•'■■• Vi!.; \,.;|;(; 'i.','i!' 



